.8th Chapter – Florence
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Chapter One – Montpellier
Chapter Two – Aix en Provence.
Chapter Three – Paris
Chapter Four – Nice
Chapter Five – Spain
Chapter Six – Nice Revisited
Chapter Seven – Bordeaux
This is Chapter Eight – Florence
Florence, Saturday, August 20, 2022
Went out for an evening walk and was greeted with beautiful sunset clouds. Tried to get to the top of the Westin Excelsior but there was a private party in the room with the great views of Florence.
Rome, Friday, August 19, 2022
I set out early to visit some street art while Rebecca slept in a bit.
We regrouped to pack and check out. Our train back to Florence was not until almost 5:55 PM so we set out to discover more of Rome.
We found some more ruins and sat out a brief rain shower at an ancient theatre.
We revisited The Vittoriano and entered it for a great view of the city and the Forum ruins.
From there was again wandered and discovered yet another beautiful church – Chiesa di Santa Maria in Portico in Campitelli
The Chiesa di Santa Maria in Portico in Campitelli is one of the oldest church in Rome dedicated to Mary. It was built by Carlo Rainaldi at the site of an earlier church called Santa Maria in Campitelli.
Pope Alexander VII had ordered the church to be built to fulfill a vow made to the Roman people to the people of Rome to protect an image of the Madonna in front of which the Romans had prayed during an epidemic of the plague. The end of this epidemic was attributed to the intervention of the image.
After that visit, we circumnavigate the Colosseum. While we rested outside a Hungarian lady who did not speak English began talking to us, trying hard to communicate. Using Google Translate we did manage to chat a bit before we had to move on. She was a delight.
Next we walked over to The Basilica San Pietro in Vincoli (St. Peter in Chains) to see see Michelangelo’s statue of Moses, which is part of the mausoleum of Pope Julius II.
We were now getting tired and hungry so we stopped off for a bad lunch before returning to the hotel to redrive our bags and head to the Metro for a shot hop to the train station.
We were whisked back to Florence on the express train and were greeted with beautiful mid 70 degree weather in Florence as we walked home to a lovely sunset.
It was three great days in Rome.
Rome, Thursday, August 18, 2022
We fueled up at the hotel breakfast.
First stop today- St. Peter’s Basilica, The Vatican. We took the metro to the Ottaviano-S. Pietro station stop, a short hop. The line to enter was very long but it only took us about 45 minutes to get in.
St. Peter’s Basilica, also called New St. Peter’s Basilica, present basilica of St. Peter in Vatican City (an enclave in Rome), begun by Pope Julius II in 1506 and completed in 1615 under Paul V. It is designed as a three-aisled Latin cross with a dome at the crossing, directly above the high altar, which covers the shrine of St. Peter the Apostle. St. Peter’s Basilica is one of the most renowned works of Renaissance architecture and features many notable Baroque elements. It is often regarded as the greatest building of its age.
After St. Peters we randomly waked around Rome. We ended up at the Roman Forum ruins and The Vittoriano,
The Forum was originally covered by a swamp. It was only in the late 7th century BCE that the valley was reclaimed and the Roman Forum began to take shape. It was destined to remain the centre of public life for over a millennium.
The various monuments were built through the centuries: first the buildings for political, religious and commercial activities, then during the 2nd century CE the civil basilicas, used for judicial activities. Already at the end of the republican age, the ancient Roman Forum had become insufficient to serve as the administrative and representative centre of the city.
The various dynasties of emperors added only prestigious monuments: the Temple of Vespasian and Titus and that of Antoninus Pius and Faustina, dedicated to the memory of the deified emperors, and the monumental Arch of Septimius Severus, built at the western end of the Forum in 203 CE to celebrate the emperor’s victories over the Parthians
The Vittoriano is a large neoclassical monument built in Rome’s Piazza Venezia between 1885 and 1911.
It was born as a celebratory monument to Vittorio Emanuele II, first King of Italy, and stands a symbol of patriotic sentiment and pride.
As well as celebrating the first King of united Italy, since the 1920s it is also the home to the tomb to the unknown soldier and currently hosts Museo del Risorgimento too, which contains memorabilia for the time of the fight to unify Italy.
Located just east of the Roman Forum, the massive stone amphitheater known as the Colosseum was commissioned around A.D. 70-72 by Emperor Vespasian of the Flavian dynasty as a gift to the Roman people. In A.D. 80, Vespasian’s son Titus opened the Colosseum—officially known as the Flavian Amphitheater—with 100 days of games, including gladiatorial combats and wild animal fights. After four centuries of active use, the magnificent arena fell into neglect, and up until the 18th century it was used as a source of building materials. Though two-thirds of the original Colosseum has been destroyed over time, the amphitheater remains a popular tourist destination, as well as an iconic symbol of Rome and its long, tumultuous history.
Rome, Wednesday, August 17, 2022
Today we began our three day visit to Rome. We packed lightly (1 bag) and walked to the Train station for our 9:13 AM express train to Rome (1H/35M) . We had comfortable seats and traveled about the same speed as an average F1/Grand Prix car.
We dropped the bag and set out to explore the Eternal City.
Our hotel Al Manthia Hotel (Via dei Giardini 35/B) was by the Fontana di Trevi so that was a natural first stop.
The ‘Fontana di Trevi’, or the Trevi Fountain is perhaps the most famous fountain in the world and definitely in Rome. The baroque fountain on the Piazza di Trevi square was initially designed by Bernini for Pope Clemens XII. However, it was not built until 50 years later after a (less expensive) redesign by the architect Nicola Salvi. Construction lasted from 1732 to 1762.
The almost 30-metre high Trevi Fountain was built against the back of the Palazzo Poli building. In the centre underneath the arch stands the statue of the nautical god Neptune, being pulled to the sea on his shell-shaped chariot pulled by two winged horses and tritons (young gods of the sea). One of the horses is calm and obedient, the other is boisterous. They symbolise the changing tides of the sea. The two statues in the niches (made by Filippo della Valle) next to Neptune represent Abundance to the left and Health to the right. The name ‘La Fontana di Trevi’ is derived from tre via, or three roads. Three roads used to come together at the site of the fountain.
As we walked we discovered The Church of St. Ignatius of Loyola.
The church, which was built by the Jesuit architect Orazio Grassi in 1626, flanks Piazza di Sant’Ignazio Loyola, an exquisite square laid out in 1727 to resemble a stage set. The exits into ‘the wings’ at the northern end and how the undulating surfaces create the illusion of a larger space.
An impressive work that one finds when entering this church is its dome, which does not exist in reality. It is only painted, and its optical illusion allows one to envision the ambitious original project: the construction of the second largest dome in Rome, after St. Peter’s Basilica.
Next was a visit to the majestic and impressive Pantheon.
Pantheon, was begun in 27 BC by the statesman Marcus Vipsanius Agrippa, probably as a building of the ordinary Classical temple type—rectangular with a gabled roof supported by a colonnade on all sides. It was completely rebuilt by the emperor Hadrian sometime between AD 118 and 128, and some alterations were made in the early 3rd century by the emperors Septimius Severus and Caracalla. It is a circular building of concrete faced with brick, with a great concrete dome rising from the walls and with a front porch of Corinthian columns supporting a gabled roof with triangular pediment. Beneath the porch are huge bronze double doors, 24 feet (7 metres) high, the earliest known large examples of this type.
The Pantheon is remarkable for its size, its construction, and its design. Until modern times, the dome was the largest built, measuring about 142 feet (43 metres) in diameter and rising to a height of 71 feet (22 metres) above its base.
Nearing sunset, I headed out for a good view of the city while Rebecca discovered a great gelato spot where we met a couple from Missouri who were visiting for a few days.
It was a very productive first day in Rome.
Florence, Tuesday, August 16, 2022
Today we visited The Galleria dell’Accademia di Firenze to visit Dave.
The Galleria dell’Accademia – or Accademia Gallery – in Florence, Italy, is without a doubt most famous for its sculptures by the great Renaissance artist, Michelangelo. His Prisoners (or Slaves), his St. Matthew and, above all, the magnificent statue of David within the Tribune are what first draw most of the hundreds of thousands of visitors the museum welcomes every year.
More on The David here https://www.accademia.org/explore-museum/artworks/michelangelos-david/
More on his unfinished works here https://www.accademia.org/explore-museum/artworks/michelangelos-prisoners-slaves/
The main halls at the Accademia also offers visitors works by great Italian artists such as Sandro Botticelli, Domenico Ghirlandaio, Pontormo, Andrea del Sarto, Allessando Allori and Orcagna, to name just a few of the painters. Many of the works of art that were commissioned by and were part of the collection of the powerful Medici family were donated to the Grand Duchy of Tuscany by the last of the Medici so that these magnificent works could be enjoyed by everyone and are part of the cultural patrimony of humankind.
The most recent section, the Museum of Musical Instruments, displays old, one-of-a-kind masterpieces by Stradivari and Bartolomeo Cristofori, inventor of the piano, also commissioned by the Medici.
We have to say the David is more impressive in person than a photo can convey. BTW- The Iris of his eyes are hearts. There were also several unfinished Michelangelo works on display. It was very interesting to see the figures in the process of emerging from the marble.
After a bit of a walk Rebecca and I split up for lunch. She went to the Roster Café (Via Porta Rossa, 63R,) for eggs Benedict and met a charming French family who lived in Boston for 5 years. I headed out for pizza but ended up at my Sushi restaurant.
I did a few shots on the way home.
Later in the day we headed out to the Apple store so Rebecca could get a new battery installed in her computer. It should be finished by Friday when we return from Rome.
Siena, Sunday, August 14, 2022
Today I decided to return to Siena, Rebecca opted to stay home and relax with a good book in a local square. I took the express bus (which was actually faster than the train), leaving at 9:10 AM and arriving about 1H 35M later). The day was bright and with very pleasant temperatures.
Siena was ablaze with contrada (neighborhood) flags today as they have two preliminary runs of Palio of the Assunta today, a very popular local horse race held in Il Campo, the town square. There were many people out wearing their neighborhood colors and eating together. There were also groups of women out singings songs, and wearing their contrada colors while walking along the streets.
The Palio is the most important event in Siena, taking place on July 2 and August 16 every year.
In the Palio, the various Sienese “contrade”, or areas in which the city is divided, challenge each other in a passionate horse race in the heart of the city in the Piazza del Campo.
Originally, there were about fifty-nine “Contrade”; now only seventeen remain, ten of which take part in the historical pageant and in the race at each Palio (seven by right and three drawn by lots).
The 17 Contrade which still exist today are: the Eagle, Snail, Wave, Panther, Forest, Tortoise, Owl, Unicorn, Shell, Tower, Ram, Caterpillar, Dragon, Giraffe, Porcupine, She-Wolf and the Goose.
Each Contrada has its own unique emblem and colors and represents an area of the city. As one walks through the streets of Siena it is easy to know in which Contrada you currently are in by observing the flags and emblems displayed along the street. Much like street signs, corners often designate the entrance into a different Contrada with signs.
The Palio horse race has its origins in the distant past, with historical records indicating horse races in Siena already taking place in the 6th century.
The Palio is much more than a simple event for the Sienese, it actually is a large part of their lives since the time of their birth. Each person belongs to a Contrada, participates in the life of the Contrada and the organization of the Palio throughout the entire year.
The Palio actually takes place over 4 days, the race taking place on the fourth day. The first day is for the “Tratta“, or the drawing of the lots and assignment of the horses to each of the Contrade. Therefore, each of the Contrade picks their jockey but not the horse; the horses are drawn and only known at this time, just 4 days before the race!
For more – https://www.discovertuscany.com/siena/palio-siena.html
I met an American from Hinsdale, one of the Chicago suburbs towns I lived in when my girls were little. I did not know him but it was quite a coincidence.
Siena was still as beautiful as before.
San Gimignano, Friday, August 12, 2022
Today we made a return trip to San Gimignano, a medieval city know for its watchtowers. We took a train ride to Poggibonsi and then the #130 bus to the city gates. A bit over a hour and a half. On our walk to the train station I did a few shots of the Arno river.
On the train, we met a nice couple who were visiting from from England and chatted for a while about places to visit.
As we arrived Rebecca and I were a bit peckish so she stopped into a little café outside the city entrance and picked up a coffee and two pieces of the best pizza I have had in quite a while. A nice little 10:30 AM Brunch in the park.
After a few minute of walking together in the city I released Rebecca to go shopping (her primary objective for today) and I wandered around shooting photos. She bought a new sun dress and had her recently acquired purse adjusted. We regrouped at 1 PM to explore together.
There was a brief rain shower which cooled things down a bit but it blew over quickly.
We hung out till around 4 or so, returned for a second round of pizza and then headed to the bus stop to reverse out trip home.
We arrived at the bus stop around 5PM to find a crowd waiting. After pushing our way on the bus we had a seat for the 20 minute ride to Poggibonsi for the train.
Back in Florence we caught some golden light on the Duomo.
Florence, Thursday, August 11, 2022
Our first stop was the train station to buy tickets for a return trip tomorrow to San Gimignano. (8.10 Eu each way) with an additional bus connection at Poggibonsi. Further research suggested that a dual bus connection is a better way. Perhaps next time.
We had an appointment with the Apple Genius bar today a 11:40 to have Rebecca’s MacBook looked it. It seems that her battery is shot. The question is wither to replace it (2014 model) or get a new one. TBD. An interesting question is which keyboard to get, US, French or Italian as each has a somewhat different key layout. It seems that the Italian keyboard is the best compromise between English and French.
After we revisited our favorite sushi place to pig out for lunch.
We wrapped up the day with a visit to the DiVinci museum, whish has replicas of some of his inventions, It was quire interesting.
MECHANISMS
From Leonardo’s codexes the machine showing the principles: motion transformation, locking system, flywheel, worm screw, ball bearer, eccentric cam, etc.EARTH
Many interactive machines: the printing machines, the revolving crane, the oil press, the automaton, the rolling mill, the odometer, the theatrical machine, the fantastic animal, etc.
WATER
Still very modern and in use today are the machines inspired to water: the hydraulic saw, the Archimedean screw, the water floats, the webbed glove.
AIR
In this section: Leonardo’s parachute, the hornithopters, the wing trial, the anemometer, and anemoscope, the hygrometer, the comedy bird, etc.
FIRE
Artillery machines were inspired by the Atlantic Codex. Among these the mortar fire and the machine gun. In this section: the armored tank, unique in the whole for its dimensions and fully interactive.
We also booked a few day in Rome for next week.
Day trips, Tuesday, August 9, 2022
Today we took a bus day trip to three nearby cities, San Gimignano, Monteriggioni and Siena (plus a trip to a vineyard for lunch and wine tasting). We left at 8 AM and retuned around 6:30 PM with a pocketful of adventure. The weather was very nice and not too hot (after last week in Florence)
San Gimignano, a small walled village about halfway between Florence and Siena, is famous for its fascinating medieval architecture and towers that rise above of all the other buildings offering an impressive view of the city from the surrounding valley.
At the height of its glory, San Gimignano’s patrician families had built around 72 tower-houses as symbols of their wealth and power. Although only 14 have survived, San Gimignano still retains its feudal atmosphere and appearance.
Recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1990, San Gimignano offers visitors the chance to step back in time while enjoying its local products including saffron and its white wine, the Vernaccia di San Gimignano.
We found San Gimignano to be an interesting town and we may plan a return trip to see more of it.
Situated in the northern extremity of the municipality, Monteriggioni stands on top of a low hill whose slopes are dotted with olive trees and vines.
The castle was founded in the second decade of the 13th century by the Republic of Siena. Its main aim was to create a defensive outpost against its rival, Florence. For centuries the site carried out this function for which it was created, resisting countless sieges and attacks, one after the other. Its military function became less important in the second half of the 16th century, when the whole state of Siena, which the borgo was part of, was annexed to the state of Florence.
Monteriggioni was a quick photo opportunity in a modest midlevel walled town.
After Monteriggioni we visited a nearby vineyard for lunch and wine tasting. Seated next to us were a very nice group of people from Tehran, Iran. We had an interesting discussion regarding the conditions in Iran and the US. Their experience as members of a minority there was very interesting.
Siena is a historical rival to Florence and a medieval city, Its heart is its central piazza known as Il Campo, known worldwide for the famous Palio run here, a horse race run around the piazza two times every summer. Movie audiences worldwide can see Siena and the Palio in the James Bond movie, Quantum of Solace.
Siena is said to have been founded by Senius, son of Remus, one of the two legendary founders of Rome thus Siena’s emblem is the she-wolf who suckled Remus and Romulus – you’ll find many statues throughout the city. The city sits over three hills with its heart the huge piazza del Campo, where the Roman forum used to be. Rebuilt during the rule of the Council of Nine, a quasi-democratic group from 1287 to 1355, the nine sections of the fan-like brick pavement of the piazza represent the council and symbolizes the Madonna’s cloak which shelters Siena.
Siena struck us a a very pretty city worth revisiting when we have more time.
Florence, Sunday, August 7, 2022
The first Sunday of each month in Florence is Domenica Metropolitana, where the museums are free.
Our first stop was Cappelle Medicee the Michelangelo designed Medici family mausoleum.
The project of building a proper family mausoleum was conceived in 1520, when Michelangelo began work on the New Sacristy upon the request of Cardinal Giulio de Medici, the future Pope Clemens VII, who expressed a desire to erect the mausoleum for some members of his family: Lorenzo the Magnificent and his brother Giuliano; Lorenzo, Duke of Urbino; and Giuliano, Duke of Nemours.
After completing the architectural works in 1524, Michelangelo worked until 1533 on the sculptures and the sarcophagi that were to be featured on the chapel walls. The only ones actually completed were the statues of Lorenzo, the Duke of Urbino; Giuliano, the Duke of Nemours; the four statues of the allegories of Day and Night, and Dawn and Dusk; and the group representing the Madonna and Child; they are flanked by statues of Saints Cosma and Damian (protectors of the Medici), executed respectively by Montorsoli and Baccio da Montelupo, both of whom were pupils of Michelangelo.
The articulation of the architecture structure and the strength of Michelangelo’s sculptures reflect a complex symbolism of Human Life, where “active life” and “contemplative life” interact to free the soul after death, a philosophical concept closely linked to Michelangelo’s own spirituality.
Numerous drawings by Michelangelo were found in a small space beneath the apse, and may be related to the statues and architecture of the Sacristy.
This place was very impressive in both scale and elegance. It houses the mortal remains of the key Medici family members, as well as many relics.
Our next visit was Museo Nazionale del Bargello.
The Bargello Museum is located in the impressive Palazzo del Bargello, a fortress with powerful embattlements which surround the austere facade. Begun in 1255, the building was the headquarters of the Capitano del Popolo and later of the Podestà and Council of Justice. In 1574, it became the living quarters for the Captain of Justice (chief of police) and was used as a prison.
Despite a series of alterations and additions which altered the original plan during the 14th and 15th centuries, the palace preserved its pleasant severity, best seen in the beautiful courtyard, the balcony and the large hall on the first floor. A covered staircase, built in the 14th century, leads to an upper loggia. The walls of the courtyard are covered with dozens of coats of arms of the various Podestà and Giudici di Ruota (judges).
This features room after room of sculptures and art.
After this visit Rebeca and I stopped found the Museo Casa di Dante but did not have time to visit so we went to our sushi restaurant for a massive lunch.
Once our color vision returned, we decided to split, I went to The Palazzo Pitti and Rebecca lingered for coffee and ice cream.
Purchased in 1550, the Palace was chosen by Cosimo I de’ Medici and his wife Eleanor of Toledo as the new Grand Ducal residence, and it soon became the new symbol of the Medici’s power over Tuscany. It also housed the Court of other two dynasties: the House of Habsburg-Lorraine (which succeeded the Medici from 1737) and the Kings of Italy from the House of Savoy, who inhabited it from 1865. Nonetheless the palace still bears the name of its first owner, the Florentine banker Luca Pitti that in the mid-1400s started its construction – maybe after a design by Brunelleschi – at the foot of the Boboli hill beyond the Arno River.
Today the Palace is divided into four museums: the Treasury of the Grand Dukes on the ground floor, the Palatine Gallery and the Imperial and Royal Apartments on the first floor, the Gallery of Modern Art and the Museum of Costume and Fashion on the second floor.
The Pitti Palace also housed an incredible collection of paintings and sculptures. It also offers a great view of Florence and has an impressive garden which I did not visit.
At this point I was reaching my Limitation of Statues, so I retuned home.
Florence, Friday, August 5, 2022
I got out early to take advantage of the cool morning. Did a few photos and returned home by noon.
Florence, Wednesday, August 3, 2022
The day began cool so I set out early for a walk.
I stopped at the Duomo around 8:45 AM to get in line. After standing there for 15 minutes I found out that it did not open until 10:00 AM even though the line had already begun to form. Because the day was quickly heating up I left to walk a bit while it was still a reasonable temp and returned home after buying some more cherries from our fruit guy.
We booked a bus tour for next Tues – Gimignano, Siena, Chianti Tour.
Rebecca made lunch in the apartment. It hit 96 by 1:00 PM.
We should get some relief later in the weekend.
Florence, Tuesday, August 2, 2022
Rebecca and I set out to go our separate ways in the morning.
I did a general walk into town and ended up with a Sushi Lunch at Sushinami , a great all you can eat restaurant.
Rebecca left a bit later and explored the Boboli Gardens and Pitti Palace.
The Boboli Gardens is a historical park of the city of Florence that was opened to the public in 1766. Originally designed for the Medici, it represents one of the first and most important examples of the Italian garden, which later served as inspiration for many European courts
The Pitti Palace, houses several important museums, was built in the second half of the 15th century probably on a project of Filippo Brunelleschi for Luca Pitti, but was unfinished at his death in 1472. The original building, formed by two floors and the ground floors, with only five windows on each tloor, was purchased in 1550 by Eleonora da Toledo, the wife of the Grand Duke Cosimo I de’Medici, thus becoming the official residence of the family. For this reason it was widened and changed, in 1560 by Bartolomeo Ammannati and at the beginning of the 17th century by Giulio and Alfonso Parigi. The lather two architects gave the facade its present day aspect, with the only exception of the two lateral projecting pavilions that were built in the age of the Lorraine family and completed during the first half of the 19th century by Paoletti and Poccianti, who also built the Palazzina della Meridiana, added on to the rear section of the palace Downlooking the garden.
Rebecca thought the third floor of the Pitti Palace was the most interesting, She found the gardens to be so-so but with great views of Florence.
I did a few shots and returned home after lunch.
The day was hot so we did not go out in the evening.
Florence, Monday, August 1, 2022
The day began with a cool morning so we had breakfast on our terrace for the first time. It was a nice break.
We began our morning walk with a trip to Rebecca’s coffee place cafe Gamberini. She was rewarded with another good cup of coffee.
Then we meandered about town, wandering over to the train station area searching for a white t-shirt for me. We found two at Cotton & Silk in an underground mall there. Great price at 6 EU each.
The day was quickly warming so we headed over to the Ponte Vecchio to snake our way back via side streets along the Arno river. Rebecca found an artist she liked so we hung out there for a bit and I did a few shots as the lighting was great.
The Ponte Vecchio is a medieval stone closed-spandrel segmental arch bridge over the Arno River, in Florence, Italy. It is noted for the shops built along it; building shops on such bridges was once a common practice.
Along the road home we stopped in to a paper shop where they print custom paper and other interesting things.
We returned home around noon as the day quickly heated up to the high 90″s. At 7:00 PM it was still 95 so we stayed in for the evening. Fortunately our apartment is very comfortable and has great AC.
Florence, Sunday, July 31, 2022
This morning we set out for Il Museo Galileo di Firenze, located in 11th Century Palazzo Castellani on Arno River
The Galileo Museum in Florence is located in piazza dei Giudici, in the medieval Palazzo Castellani: here, one of the most important collections of scientific instruments and experimental equipment is housed.
The museum’s itinerary includes over 1000 instruments of great scientific importance, but which are also known for their considerable beauty, and are the backbone of the museum’s presentation of the extraordinary figure of Galileo, reconstructing events that took place in Florence and Tuscany: under the Medici and Lorraine governments the area was not only unmatched in the arts, but was also a center of excellence in scientific knowledge, as well as an incubator and stage for episodes and discoveries that deeply marked the history of modern science.
It was very impressive and we wish we could have spent a bit more time there but we were hungry for lunch after a few hours there.
We returned home for lunch to enjoy some fresh melon and prosciutto.
As things cooled down a bit we went out for an evening walk and did a few shots.
Florence, Saturday, July 30, 2022
Today was a bit cooler with a high of mid 90’s.We set out for a walk downtown with no specific place in mind and ended up with a tour of Palazzo Medici Riccardi.
The first Medici palace, the home of Cosimo the Elder and Lorenzo the Magnificent and the workplace of artists of the calibre of Donatello, Michelangelo, Paolo Uccello, Benozzo Gozzoli and Botticelli. The Renaissance house… where it all began.
It was built in Florence for Cosimo de’ Medici (1444–59; one of the finest examples of early Renaissance architecture.
As the day heated up we headed back toward our place and stopped for lunch at Café Pasticceria Gamberini (Via Curtatone, 4/6/8/10) for perhaps the best Pizza (Nara) I have ever had. Rebecca even though the coffee was excellent. We will return.
Florence, Friday, July 29, 2022
I went out early to buy a few bus tickets and Rebecca had a hair appointment in the AM. Returning I stopped in at a local fruit vendor to buy some cherries which are delicious. He is an very likable fellow and threw in a few bonus plums. I bought two units (5 Eu each)and Rebecca surprised me when she returned from her appointment with another one (4 EU). We were well stocked in Cherries.
Another hot one today, so we did an evening stroll.
First stop was the roof of the Westin Excelsior Hotel (Piazza Ognissanti, 3) for a panoramic view of Florence at sunset. It did not disappoint. Rooms range from 725 – 2,000 EU per night.
Located on the banks of River Arno in Florence’s historic Piazza Ognissanti, The Westin Excelsior, Florence offers luxurious rooms and suites, many overlooking the river and the Oltrarno area.
Next was a general “no destination” walk around Florence taking in the sights and sounds. By design we just happened to revisit a nice chocolate store which was very generous with its samples. Rebecca bought a new straw hat from a vendor.
Later we found a sushi restaurant with an all you can eat menu for 15 EU and logged it for a future visit. We stopped briefly to hear another outdoor concert and them returned home.
Florence, Weather
More hot days ahead in Florence.
We do morning and evening walks and stay in the AC during the hot part of the day. The good news is that it does cool off in the evening
Florence, Thursday, July 28, 2022
To take advantage of the cooler morning temps we booked an early admittance (8:30 AM) to the Uffizi gallery.
The Gallery entirely occupies the first and second floors of the large building constructed between 1560 and 1580 and designed by Giorgio Vasari. It is famous worldwide for its outstanding collections of ancient sculptures and paintings (from the Middle Ages to the Modern period). The collections of paintings from the 14th-century and Renaissance period include some absolute masterpieces: Giotto, Simone Martini, Piero della Francesca, Beato Angelico, Filippo Lippi, Botticelli, Mantegna, Correggio, Leonardo, Raffaello, Michelangelo and Caravaggio, in addition to many precious works by European painters (mainly German, Dutch and Flemish).
Moreover, the Gallery boasts an invaluable collection of ancient statues and busts from the Medici family, which adorns the corridors and consists of ancient Roman copies of lost Greek sculptures.
There were many great works there.
It also offered great views.
We caught lunch after at Ristorante Il Ricettario (Via Lambertesca, 22 R,) . The prosciutto and melon were great, the Spaghetti Carbonara was very rich. I also noted a strange address (which might be a Harry Potter reference).
Florence, Wednesday, July 27, 2022
We enjoyed a beautiful evening in Florence tonight.
First took the #12 bus to Piazzale Michelangelo to watch the sunset over Florence.
Discovered stairs leading down to town and chanced across a free outdoor classical concert.
Delightful!
Florence, Tuesday, July 26, 2022
Last night as we wandered the cooler evening streets of Florence we chanced across a parade of people in traditional garb. It turns out they are – Bandierai degli Uffizi – the Official Flag wavers of Florence.
Bandierai degli Uffizi are the Official Flagwavers of Florence, they belong to the hystorical “Corteo Storico della Repubblica Fiorentina” and to the famous “Calcio Storico Fiorentino“, the traditonal ancient game of Florence. Is the only one flagwavers’ Group that officially and institutionally represents the City of Florence.
Video here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LsShmbQgCh4
Florence, Sunday, July 24, 2022
I started the day with a trip to the Vodaphone office when I purchased our SIMMS yesterday. They worked fine, but I was missing one thing – they hadn’t told me my phone number. It was an easy fix as they looked it up.
After, Rebecca and I returned to the Hop-on-Hop-off bus to a lift to the Basilica di Santa Croce where we visited some old friends like Michelangelo, Rossini, Machiavelli and Galileo Galilei who are entombed there.
Santa Croce, rebuilt for the Franciscan order in 1294 by Arnolfo di Cambio, is the burial place for the great and good in Florence. Michelangelo is buried in Santa Croce, as are Rossini, Machiavelli, and the Pisan-born Galileo Galilei, who was tried by the Inquisition and was not allowed a Christian burial until 1737, 95 years after his death. There is also a memorial to Dante, but his sarcophagus is empty (he is actually buried in Ravenna as he was exiled from Florence).
There is an immense artistic wealth in Santa Croce; frescoes (1380) by Gaddi in the Cappella Maggiore tell the story of the holy cross, “santa croce”, and beautiful frescoes by Giotto in the Bardi and Peruzzi Chapels show scenes from the life of St. Francis and St. John the Evangelist. An unusual relief, the Annunciation, in gilded limestone by Donatello decorates the south nave wall. Don’t miss the memorial to the 19th century playwright Giovanni Battista Niccolini to the left of the entrance said to be been the inspiration for the Statue of Liberty.
The original structure dates from 1212 when St. Francis of Assisi visited Florence, later with a group of his followers, he settled in the city, choosing an inhospitable, marshy area just outside the city walls. This original architectural base was re-discovered after the flood in 1966.
The present building began on the 3rd of May 1294 or 1295 (the year is not certain) the erection of the present church began and took years to finish
The church exterior is covered with a polychrome marble façade added in 1863 and paid for by the English benefactor, Sir Francis Sloane.
More here https://www.visitflorence.com/florence-churches/santa-croce.html
It is a huge building with impressive grounds. It was also rather stuffy inside with the heat.
After we walked around the area and landed at Florence’s most famous sandwich shop – All‘Antico Vinaio, where they sell monster sandwiches, the lines are long but move quickly along.
I also did a few city shots.
In the evening we went for a walk as it cooled down around sunset. The lighting was wonderful.
Florence, Saturday, July 23, 2022
Today was a hot one with temps in the high 90’s and rising.
We set out in the AM to get some provisions for the apt. Found a few mom and pop stores for essentials and breakfast. High priced and crowded.
Set out after to do a bit of exploring but the heat was still rising.
We set out to get an Italian SIMM card for our phones. Vodaphone did the trick at 20 Eu a month. We prepaid for 3 months.
Decided to catch the hop-on-hop-off bus for some AC comfort. Bought as 72 hour pass for each for 28 Eu each. We stopped at the Piazzale Michelangelo for a great view of the city. It is one of my favorite places in Florence.
The Piazzale Michelangelo was built on the hills located south of the Florence’s historic center following the design of the architect Giuseppe Poggi. In 1869 Florence was the capital of Italy in this period, the whole city underwent an intense urban renewal, the “lungarni” (riverside walkways following the Arno) were created; on the right side replacing the walls of the 14th century the bypass (Viali di Circonvallazione) was opened and to the left side a panoramic tree-lined street of 8 km, currently called Viale dei Colli, in which top was constructed the Piazzale Michelangelo, as a panoramic terrace on the city. From 1890 to 1935, this street was used by the tram tracks of the Chianti that connected Florence with Greve in Chianti and San Casciano Val di Pesa.
Later we took the bus back to the train station and walked home from there.
Relaxed a bit to beat the heat and went out later for dinner and walked around a bit near the river.
Pickpocket close encounter.
While walking along the street I felt something odd on my left front side pocket where my wallet was. I stopped and looked down just as a guy behind me stopped, put up his hands and said Scozzi and quickly crossed the street. I think he was trying to pick my pocket as I was walking along. Very smooth on his part. I’m not even sure how he had identified where my wallet was. Note to self – switch to pants with zipper pocket.
It was a good first day in Florence.
Bordeaux to Florence, Friday, July 22, 2022
Friday is Flyday
We checked out of our Air BnB at 1 PM but our (Volotea) flight was not until 7:45 PM so we had some time to kill with our suitcases.
We casually strolled to our bus stop (#1) and hoped on the bus marked Airport on its side. Well, it turns out that this bus goes two directions, to the train station and the to airport. We ended up at the train station to learn that we needed to take it in the OTHER direction. No problem with time to kill, so we re-boarded it and took the scenic route to the airport.
The Bordeaux airport is somewhat small than others we have been at. We sat around at a Starbuck for a few hours until pre boarding was called. The flight left on time and arrived at 9:30 PM. We grabbed our luggage and took the tram into town, finishing the trip to the new Air BnB in an expensive taxi because the hour was late and we were hot (mid 90’s even then).
Check-in was an adventure. We were instructed to enter the parking garage to retrieve the keys from a lockbox, then go back to the street and unlock a wooden door, walk down a corridor up two flights of stairs to our apartment (mostly in the dark).
OK. it took us a while to find the parking space to find the lockbox, and then the fun began.
I broke a key in the lock of the first wooden door and discovered that my cell phone was not working in Italy. No problem because I didn’t have the phone number of the Air BnB host to call her anyway. Went to a nearby restaurant to use their WiFi to look up her number but couldn’t get on. Fortunately Rebecca suggested that perhaps a different wooden door was the correct one. She was right and a different key worked that lock. Now all we had to do was find the right apartment. Good Luck they were all labeled 61A.
Up one flight of stains to the top floor but the key did not work. Frustration and wondering if were were going to sleep on the street that night as it was now after 10 PM. I revisited the instructions and thought I’d try a different set of stairs. Voilà, finally found the right door and was greeted with some nice air-conditioning.
It is all part of the adventure of traveling.