.5th Chapter – Spain
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Chapter One – Montpellier
Chapter Two – Aix en Provence.
Chapter Three – Paris
Chapter Four – Nice
This is Chapter Five – Spain
Torremolinos, Spain Sunday, March 6, 2022
Sunday is flea market day at the Bull Ring so I made a visit to view the treasures on sale. On the way out I noticed a young entrepreneur selling some of his things. I offered him a 5 Eu donation but he refused, so I gave him 5 Eu for a .50 toy saying that I don’t have change. He was both confuse and pleased.
Tomorrow we fly back to Nice after a few months in sunny Spain.
We booked EasyJet which has a connecting flight Malaga to Geneva to Nice. I paid extra for a checked bag to make the process easier.
Our new digs in Nice is more residential which will be interesting but still jut a few blocks from the sea and an easy walk to the Promenade des Anglais in Nice.
We still have to finalize a trip to Bordeaux, our summer accommodations and a planned month in Venice this September.
Overall Spain provided us with a nice respite from winter and a great way to explore some interesting Spanish cities.
Cordoba, Spain, Tuesday March 2, 2022
Today we visited the Castle of the Christian Monarchs or Alcazar. The public part was mostly of the gardens although it did have some interesting roman ruins and mosaics.
The Alcázar (castle) of Cordoba, with its thick defensive walls, served both as a fortress and a palace, and is a perfect illustration of the development of Cordoban architecture through the ages. Roman and Visigoth ruins lie side by side with Arabic remains in this magnificent building, which was once the favourite residence of the different rulers of the city. However, when Cordoba was taken by Fernando III «the Saint» in 1236, the former Caliphal Palace was in a pitiful, ruinous state. Alfonso X «the Wise» began the restoration work, which was finished off during the reign of Alfonso XI. It has fulfilled many different functions over the years, such as Headquarters of the Inquisition, or a prison (first half of the 20th century).
At first sight, one of the most surprising features of the fortress is its almost rectangular shape with its long walls made of solid blocks of stone (ashlars) and four corner towers (the tower of the Lions, the main keep, the tower of the Inquisition and the tower of the Doves). Inside, the different halls are distributed around courtyards with an exotic array of flowers, aromatic herbs and mature trees. Both rooms and corridors are covered by stone cupolas in Gothic style.
In one of the galleries leading to the halls, there is a Roman sarcophagus on display, a pagan work dating from the early 3rd Century, on the front of which there is a sculpture in relief depicting the journey of the dead to the underworld through a half-opened door.
The most interesting hall is the small Baroque chapel, the Hall of the Mosaics, where a series of Roman mosaics, discovered underneath the Corredera, are displayed around the walls. Below this hall are the baths, built in Arabic style, which are divided into three rooms with vaulted ceilings containing the familiar star-shaped openings. The boiler which provided water for the baths was situated below the Main Keep.
There are two courtyards, but the one in Mudejar style is by far the most attractive. The cool marble floors and the murmur of water, running down the channels and into the ponds, refreshes the hot summer air and soothes the weary visitor’s spirits. The spacious gardens, stretching out to the west, give this Alcázar, or castle, an air of monumental grandeur.
After a disappointing repeat lunch at Ginos we wandered around town and caught the 4:17 PM train back to Malaga.
Cordoba, Spain, Monday March 1, 2022
We were up at 7 AM to catch a 8:15 train (1 EU) to Malaga to connect with a 9:20 train (20 EU) for 2 days in Cordoba. We book a nice boutique hotel (Soho Boutique Hospederia Atalia) in the center of the city.
The high speed train ride is about 1.25 hours and actually faster than driving.
At one time Cordoba was Europe’s most important city and enjoyed three times the population of Paris.
Córdoba was a Roman settlement from around 152 BCE. As the capital of the Baetica province, which occupied most of modern-day Andalusia, it became a large and prosperous city. Two key structures remain from this period of its history: ten columns of its largest Temple, dating from the 1st century CE and discovered by construction workers in the 1950s; and the Roman Bridge, originally built in the 1st century BCE
From the sixth century CE, the city was under Visigothic dominion, until it was occupied by the Moors in 711 CE. Córdoba became the capital of Islamic Spain in 756, when exiled Syrian prince Abd Al-Rahman I declared himself ruler of the country’s Muslims. In 784, Rahman I founded the Mezquita on the site of a Visigothic church, but the now-iconic structure wasn’t completed until around 976, after numerous additions by successive rulers. Its most famous feature is the 856 double arches that support the prayer room’s ceiling, modelled on those in Jerusalem’s Dome of the Rock.
By the time that Abdir Al-Rahman III became ruler of Moorish Spain in 929 CE, thus confirming Al-Andaluz’s independence from the Muslim powers of Baghdad, Córdoba was Europe’s largest and most advanced city. Its leading intellectuals were carrying out pioneering work in philosophy, medicine and astronomy and the Alcazar (fortress) contained the most extensive library in the west. Christians, Jews and Muslims lived and worked side-by-side, most of the time without clashing.
Córdoba was taken from the Moors by King Ferdinand III in 1236 and incorporated into Christian Spain. Ferdinand immediately consecrated the mosque as a Catholic church, although luckily he didn’t destroy the original building. Various additions to the Mezquita were made by Spain’s Christian rulers throughout the centuries, culminating in the construction of a Gothic cathedral on top of the prayer hall in the mid-16th century, on the orders of Holy Roman Emperor and King of Spain Charles V.
During the centuries that followed, Córdoba’s prestige and size declined dramatically: in the 1700s, the city’s population was just 20,000, a fraction of what it had been under Moorish rule seven hundred years earlier. Economic resurgence only began in the late nineteenth century, as the first stages of industrial revolution swept across Europe.
We booked admission to the Mosque–Cathedral of Córdoba for 11:30 AM
Mosque-Cathedral of Córdoba, Spanish Mezquita-Catedral de Córdoba, also called Great Mosque of Córdoba,was converted into a Christian cathedral in the 13th century.
The original structure was built by the Umayyad ruler ʿAbd ar-Raḥmān I in 784–786 with extensions in the 9th and 10th centuries that doubled its size, ultimately making it one of the largest sacred buildings in the Islamic world. The ground plan of the completed building forms a vast rectangle measuring 590 by 425 feet (180 by 130 metres), or little less than St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome. About one-third of this area is occupied by the Patio de los Naranjos (“Court of the Oranges”) and the cloisters that surround it on the north, east, and west. Passing through the courtyard, one enters on the south a deep sanctuary whose roof is supported by a forest of pillars made of porphyry, jasper, and many-coloured marbles.
Some 850 pillars divide this interior into 19 north-to-south and 29 east-to-west aisles, with each row of pillars supporting a tier of open horseshoe arches upon which a third and similar tier is superimposed. The most exquisite decoration in the whole complex is found in the third mihrab, or prayer niche, a small octagonal recess roofed with a single block of white marble that is carved in the form of a shell and has walls inlaid with Byzantine-style mosaics and gold.
This was another amazing building having once been the largest mosque (700-900’s AD) in Europe and later converted into a Christian cathedral (1300’s).
After a few hours in the cathedral we had lunch, explored the city and visited the Roman Bridge which now houses a museum.
The day was long and we were very tired and hungry. We search in vain for a good restaurant to dine in finally waiting until 7:30 PM for Ginos (near Starbucks) to open where we had a decent meal. We ran into an English couple who was also waiting for the restaurant to open.
We were very happy to return to the room to crash for the night.
El Caminito del Rey, Spain Thursday, February 24, 2022
Gorgeous Gorge …
Earlier in the week we booked a Thursday trip to El Caminito del Rey an interesting walk along a deep gorge, high above the water.
El Caminito del Rey is a 8-kilometre path near Malaga (Andalusia) which was once considered one of the most dangerous in the world. Today the entire route has been carefully restored, but although it’s now much safer, one thing hasn’t changed – the unique experience of strolling along walkways hanging over 100 metres up on a sheer cliff face. The views are unforgettable.
The Caminito del Rey route is spectacular from beginning to end, running through cliffs, canyons, and a large valley. It crosses the landscapes of Desfiladero de los Gaitanes, a gorge carved out by the river Guadalhorce, with walls 700 metres high.
The area is also inhabited by a wide variety of plant and animal species; with a little luck, you can see highland birds like Egyptian vultures, griffon vultures, or golden eagles, and mammals such as wild boar and Iberian ibex.
Torremolinos, Spain Sunday, February 20, 2022
Today was a laid back kicking around day so we took a long walk along the seafront to the harbor in the next town.
Along the way we encountered some interesting green birds – Monk Parakeet – which are common here.
The Monk Parakeet is a relatively small parrot, at around 27 cm (10 in.) long. It is lime green on top and light grey under, with darker horizontal edges. The forehead also is grey. The bill is orange-pinkish and the feet are grey. The wing outer feathers are blue.
The Latin name ‘Myiopsitta’ means ‘fly’, and ‘parrot’, while ‘monachus’ has the same meaning as ‘Monk’ (solitary). However this parrot does not quite look like a monk, and the bird nests in colonies rather than being solitary, and it can be seen foraging in flocks.
Monk parakeets forage on the ground in open areas, and they build their nests with sticks. The structures can become quite large.
They are considered as highly intelligent and less expensive than the African Grey Parrot, for example, so this makes it attractive for the pet trade.
A few shots from the day.
Torremolinos, Spain Friday, February 18, 2022
Tim, our former Airbnb host was kind enough to drop off a few things we stored with him when we went to Seville.
Today we restocked the fridge and just kicked around.
Our new Airbnb also has a great view and a second bedroom (with the world’s hardest bed). Rebecca got out the yoga mat and did some limbering up.
We caught lunch at a favorite Italian restaurant –Ristorante Alby’s . It was a bit on the pricy side but the food was excellent.
We also were treated to a beautiful sunset.
Seville – Thursday, February 17, 2022
We took a taxi to the train station to catch the 11:40 train to Malaga. This was a milk run taking 3 hours through the countryside. Along the way we passed Caminito del Rey.
El Caminito del Rey (The King’s Little Path) is a walkway, pinned along the steep walls of a narrow gorge in El Chorro, near Ardales in the province of Málaga, Spain. The name derives from the original name of Camino del Rey (King’s Pathway), abbreviated locally to el caminito.[1] The walkway had fallen into disrepair and was partially closed for over a decade. After four years of extensive repairs and renovations, the walkway re-opened in 2015. It has been known in the past as the “world’s most dangerous walkway” following five deaths in 1999 and 2000
We will be booking a trip there on Wednesday next week. Take the virtual tour here. https://www.caminitodelrey.info/en/your-visit/virtual-visit
On the train we also saw several solar and wind farms along the way.
From Malaga we took the local train to Torremolinos. We checked into our new Airbnb. It is in the same building as our previous Airbnb, just two floors down and on the other side of the building.
Seville – Wednesday, February 16, 2022
Our last full day in Seville. I did a quick walk around the Gypsy Quarters near our neighborhood and checked out the Mercado.
Again a day of foot exploration as we revisited the Plaza de España . This time the canals were filled with water. We also explored the adjacent park.
Seville – Tuesday, February 15, 2022
We spent the day just walking around town and took a tour of the Jewish quarter with a guide.
We also took a a carriage ride through town as a Valentines treat for ourselves and had lunch at a favorite restaurant -La Mala.
Seville – Monday, February 14, 2022
We were dead tired today so we limited our explorations.
The only highlight (if that) was a visit to the Las Setas de Sevilla or Seville Mushroom.
Standing in the Plaza de la Encarnación is Metropol Parasol, also known as the ‘mushrooms of Seville’ (‘Las Setas de Sevilla‘). This building, which opened in 2011, was designed by the German architect Jürgen Mayer, who won a design competition to revitalise the square. It is the largest wooden construction in the world (150 x 70 meters and 26 meters in height). Mayer won the competition partly thanks to the way he integrated the remains of a Roman colony into his building. People originally wanted to build a parking lot here, but that idea was abandoned when these Roman remains were discovered.
We spent about 20 minutes there after which I returned home and Rebecca went shopping for a while and hit a Starbucks.
Seville – Sunday, February 13, 2022
We had tickets to visit the Royal Alcazar the royal palace, a massive complex with a rich history. We also visited the royal Quarters.
The compound which makes up the Royal Alcazar of Seville was founded in the early Middle-Ages, when the ancient Roman city of Hispalis, the Spali of Gothic times, evolved to be re-named Ixbilia. According to the most trustworthy sources, it was at the beginning of the tenth century – in 913, to be specific – that the Caliph of Cordoba, Abdurrahman III an-Nasir, ordered new government premises, the Dar al-Imara, to be built on the southern flank of the city. Previously, the ruling al-Andalus powers had been seated inside the Low-Roman-Empire city centre, not far from the Hispalis Mosque, where the Collegiate Church of El Salvador now stands. From then on, Seville’s centre of power was linked to the city’s port, the hub of its economic activity. The city’s ancient port, on the grounds of the current Plaza del Triunfo, or the ‘Explanada de los Banu Jaldún’ as it was then called, moved west towards the main course of the Guadalquivir, while the river’s subsidiary arm, flowing from the current Alameda de Hercules through Tetuan street to the Plaza Nueva, gradually lost its importance as an urban waterway as it dwindled. Only during flood periods could it reclaim its place.
Later on, the Abbadíes, who ruled Seville and its surroundings during the tenth century, would add a new Alcazar to the palace built for the Umayyad government. This new palace, al-Mubarak, ‘The Blessed’, quickly became the hub of the city’s official and literary life, with poets like the king al-Mutamid setting the scene for other human activities and for the legends that are now part of Seville’s history. The Almoravids would subsequently close down the government space, expanding the palace all the way to the Guadalquivir. Then, in the twelfth century, the Almohades added their own buildings to the structures erected in Arab times, whose ruins remain as the only examples of that kind we can still see today throughout the world. One of these is the House of Trade.
In 1248-49, the territory was conquered by the Castilians, who gave it the role it still retains as a Royal Residence and as the city’s political hub. This was a historical moment, the crux of the cultural synthesis that has defined the city of Seville, when palaces rose up around the original foundations, like Alfonso the Tenth’s Gothic Palace, shaped by the new cultural framework that had taken hold of the city. In the middle of the fourteenth century, at a time when al-Andalus was already under the rule of the Crown of Castile, we see the re-appearance of old Mediterranean concepts, now dressed up in Arabic style, in the Mudéjar Palace of Pedro I.
The cultural richness and scale of this complex was amazing.
Seville – Saturday, February 12, 2022
We took a walking tour of Seville today. Our guide was a full time flamingo dancer and instructor. He said he makes more money giving tours.
Along the way we were introduced to many city sights. One interesting fact was that the royal palace had a system of water pipes in the walls to provide fresh water. This became very important during the black plague.
After our tour we were craving American food so we stopped at a restaurant Nickel for two burgers.
We then walked over to the he Plaza de España which were the Ibero-American Exposition of 1929 grounds.
The Ibero-American Exhibition took place in the Spanish city of Seville. It opened on 9 May 1929 and closed on 21 June 1930. It was held to showcase the twinning between Spain, Latin America, the United States, Portugal and Brazil.
The exhibition coincided with the 1929 Barcelona International Exhibition. Both were considered the General Spanish Exhibition
On the exhibition site, 117 buildings, of which 25 remain,were built (not including the villas and other small buildings). Since 2001, all the pavilions that have been preserved have been owned by the town council, although their use has been transferred to several bodies.
All the Latin American pavilions were located in the surroundings of the Maria Luisa Park. To the north of the park, the Plaza de España was built in the neoclassical style. To the south of the park, the Plaza de America was built. The Plaza de América was built over the old Huerto de la Mariana. Three Spanish pavilions were placed in this square and would be permanent: the Industrial and Decorative Arts pavilion, the Fine Arts pavilion and the Royal pavilion.
The Seville Pavilion was located on the gardens of the San Telmo Palace. This pavilion had an auditorium, which became the Teatro Lope de Vega, and an adjoining hall, which became the Casino de la Exposición.
The Plaza de España is crowned by the Spanish Pavilion for the 1929 Ibero-American Exhibition, also designed by Aníbal González. Made in regionalist style, although with Renaissance influences, it incorporates the traditional elements of forging, ceramics and exposed brick. It was the largest pavilion ever built.
Later that evening we went for a walk and as we were heading home for the night met two ladies visiting from Paris – Monika and Julia. We had a delightful hour chat with them covering a range of topics including our mutual frustration of not knowing that Tapas dishes to expect when ordering.
Seville – Friday, February 11, 2022
Today we had tickets to visit the “Catedral de Santa María de la Sede” or Cathedral of Seville, the third largest cathedral in the world. Photos do not convey its immense scale or lavish details. It is also the final resting place of Christopher Columbus.
We went to the top for a stunning view of the city.
The”Catedral de Santa María de la Sede” is the largest church in the world, after St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome and St. Paul’s Cathedral in London.
The Cathedral of the archbishopric of Seville was built on the site where once a Moorish mosque, built by the Almohads, stood. This mosque was taken from the Moors in 1248 and was then used as a cathedral. In the 13th century, the mosque was destroyed, except for the Patio de los Naranjos (the orange court), and the Giralda tower. Construction of the cathedral began in 1403. The cathedral was finally completed in 1507. Seville Cathedral was built in a five-aisled cruciform church with chapels. The cathedral is 127 metres (415 feet) long, 83 meters 270 feet) wide and 43 meters (141 feet about – 10 stories from floor to ceiling) high.
After the Cathedral visit we had lunch at a tapas restaurant Pelayo Bar and then walked around town and chanced across the Iglesia Colegial del Divino Salvador or The Church of the Savior. It was also massive in scale and contained many interesting sculptures and items.
The Church of the Savior is a huge, baroque Roman Catholic temple, whose history dates back to the 13th century. Its richly decorated interior will delight not only lovers of sacred art. The flagship of the church is the delightful main altar by Cayetano de Acosta. The work of the Spanish sculptor is considered the most monumental and representative example of the Baroque style in Seville.
The Church of the Savior was built on the ruins of the largest mosque in the city. Built in the 9th century, the Muslim building was transformed into a cathedral in the first half XIII century on the initiative of the King of Castile and Leon – Ferdinand III Saint.
We also walked by the Torre del Oro, the Golden Tower, which serves as the navel museum. We climbed to its top for a city view.
The Torre del Oro is the “Tower of Gold” in Seville. The 36-meter-high tower was built by the Almohads in the 12th century and was part of the Moorish city wall, which ran between the Alcazar Palace and the rest of Seville. The purpose of the tower was to control shipping on the Guadalquivir. A heavy chain ran under water from the massive tower to the other side to prevent enemy ships from sailing on the river.
The Torre del Oro is located next to the Guadalquivir River and near the Plaza de Toros. The name “Golden” tower refers to Andalusia’s prosperous period during the times of the Latin American colonies. When ships entered Seville via the river, they could discharge their cargo (gold) here. In addition to being a storage place, the middle part is a prison. Another reason for the name would be that, in the past, the sight of the second section seemed to be gilded and a golden sheen shone in the river. The last small turret was added to the top only in 1760.
At the end of the day we were as tired as this pooch.
Seville – Thursday, February 10, 2022
Off to Seville
Our Airbnb host Tim arrived at noon to drive us the few blocks to the local train station. This was very kind of him and beyond the call of duty.
We took the local train to Malaga train station for our 2:15 train for a week in Seville. The train was clean and roomy. The ride was just under 2 hours and included a stop in Cordoba. After the Cordoba stop the train reversed its direction of travel so I asked a passenger if this was the Seville train. He patiently reassured me that it was.
We arrived at the scheduled time and grabbed a taxi from the train station to our Airbnb. The ride there was interesting and included a hilltop castle and many orange groves along the way.
The apartment was on the second floor and very close to all the sights. A great value at 76 Eu a night for 7 nights.
We grabbed a quick bite at a nearby restaurant Tanto Monta for nachos and a burger.
We set out in foot to explore the area and immediately fell in love with Seville.
We discovered that nightlife in Seville is quite robust even on a Thursday night with many people enjoying the spring like weather of Mid 70’s.
Mijas Pueblo – Tuesday, February 8, 2022
Dinner in the White City
Today we set out for Mijas Pueblo, a charming white city 45 minutes by bus from home.
Mijas Pueblo is probably one of the most beautiful white village Costa del Sol has to offer. Tucked in high, on the side of a mountain, the village offers stunning views over the Costa del Sol, from Benalmadena in the East all the way to Gibraltar in the West. On a clear day you can even spot the shapes of the mountains from Morocco.
Mijas Pueblo Spain dates all the way back in the Bronze Age and has been inhabited by the Phoenicians, the Romans, the Moors and in the end, by the Christians. Walking on the streets of the village you will notice an amalgam of different architectural styles, especially in the lower part. Being built on the mountainside, the village is split into the upper part and the lower part, divided by the Plaza Virgen de la Peña, the main square in town.
Mijas Pueblo is also famous for its burro taxis – touristy carriages pulled by donkeys. Mijas town is one of the last places in Spain where donkeys are used for tourism.
We timed our arrival for the 10 Am bus precisely. A bit too precise to be exact. We arrived at the bus stop one minute before the bus was to arrive. I ran in to the bus station to buy a ticket and told Rebecca to hold the bus. A lady in front of me was taking her time and finally completed her transaction. I bought two tickets and ran out to find Rebecca holding the bus for me. She had stopped the bus and also bought two tickets to make the driver wait as he was closing the doors. We ended up double paying but making the 10 AM bus. No big deal because the tickets were 1.4 EU each. A real deal as is often the case in Spain.
The bus ride to Mijas was wonderful traveling along the seacoast and then climbing up the twisty mountain roads to the town. Our drivers skill in negotiating the turns with his large bus was a sight to behold with little room for error.
We arrived in Mijas Pueblo just after 11 AM and walked around the city. It was lovely with its twisting streets, hills and sparkling white buildings.
We dropped 3 EU to visit the bull ring (built in 1900), a chapel carved into the hillside, watched some climbers working the gorge burros taxi and checked out a few of the stores. The day was cooler low 50’s and overcast with occasional sun.
On our exploration we found a colorful little café – La Boveda del Flamenco where we had lunch. Stuffed avocado with salmon and avocado toast plus 2 cappitchinos for the princely sum of 14 EU. And it was delicious.
We continued our walk easily covering all the sights in a few hours, and caught the 4:15 bus home.
Another great day in Spain.
We pack up tomorrow for a week in Seville before returning to a different unit in the same building in Torremolinos until March 7 when we fly back to Nice.
Torremolinos, Fuengirola – Sunday, February 6, 2022
Today was a bad bus day. More on that later
The Torremolinos Marathon ran today. Unfortunately both Rebecca and I forgot our professional shoes so we did not run. (Yeah, right). It ran directly below our window so I went down and clapped for the runners for a while.
Rebecca suggested that we take the train to Fuengirola, so we hopped on the train.
Fuengirola is a town on the Costa del Sol in southern Spain, known for its sandy beaches. South of the city center, the medieval Moorish Sohail Castle towers over the coastline, and hosts concerts, festivals and a medieval market in summer.
On arrival at the station we found that our passes did not work as we were traveling in the wrong zone. A security guard let us in fee free. We walked around a bit but were not impressed with the town.
Once there we decided to take the bus to Mijas Pueblo a 30 minute ride so we set out to find the stop for the 122 bus. The bus is schedule to leave every 20 minutes. Unfortunately we waited at the stop for over a half hour and no bus. So we decided to make the trip another day as it was already passed 2 PM.
So we then hopped on the train back and ended up talking to a nice English guy who owns a place in the area. He offered us a few suggestions on new places to visit in the area.
We took the train to a different stop Playa Major, so Rebecca could get a nice tapas lunch at Lizarran in the shopping center . Several of the items were very good. We both ate well for 20 Eu total
The day ended with us returning to our seaside digs.
We may give Mijas a shot tomorrow.
Torremolinos, Spain – Saturday, February 5, 2022
Rebecca gave me a call as she was out walking alerting me to a car show down the walkway from us. There were old cars, a band and food. Many people dressed up in 50’s attire as well.
It was an unexpected surprise.
Torremolinos, Spain – Thursday, February 3, 2022
We were greeted with a nice sunrise on our return to Torremolinos. Weather is great in mid 70’s.
Granada Spain Day 3 – Wednesday February 2, 2022
Having extended our trip by a day today was a bonus day to leisurely walk around the town. We also booked a hop on hop off bus for 2 EU each. It gave us a nice overview of the city and we discovered a new area near our hotel which we had not explored.
We began with a walk around the Realejo or Jewish quarter to view some of the outdoor street art executed by “El Niño de las Pinturas” and other street artists.
We got off the bus in a new area and had a excellent lunch at La Bella Fonda – starter , main course, dessert and glass of wine for 12.50 EU each. It was great.
Then it was off to the Royal Chapel of Granada to visit Fernand and Isabella, or least least their tombs and caskets. Their resting places were magnificently carved and their actual caskets are located under in the crypt.
The Royal Chapel of Granada is an Isabelline style building, constructed between 1505 and 1517, and originally integrated in the complex of the neighbouring Granada Cathedral. It is the burial place of the Spanish monarchs, Queen Isabella I and King Ferdinand, the Catholic Monarchs.
We continued our exploration until around 6 PM, and after picking up our bag at the hotel we took a taxi to bus station for the 90 minute ride to Malaga. We tried to catch the 7 PM bus but it was not available so we stuck to the 8 PM. We arrive in Malaga at 9;30 PM and grabbed the train home arriving around 10 PM
Sometimes it is hard to grasp that this is our regular life and mot just a long vacation.
Granada Spain Day 2 – Tuesday February 1, 2022
Today was Alhambra Day.
Constructed on a plateau that overlooks the city of Granada, the Alhambra was built chiefly between 1238 and 1358, in the reigns of Ibn al-Aḥmar, founder of the Naṣrid dynasty, and his successors. The splendid decorations of the interior are ascribed to Yūsuf I (died 1354).
After the expulsion of the Moors in 1492, much of the interior was effaced and the furniture was ruined or removed. Charles V, who ruled in Spain as Charles I (1516–56), rebuilt portions in the Renaissance style and destroyed part of the Alhambra in order to build an Italianate palace designed by Pedro Machuca in 1526.
In 1812 some of the towers were blown up by a French force under Horace-François-Bastien Sébastiani during the Peninsular War (War of Independence), and the rest of the buildings narrowly escaped the same fate.
In 1821 an earthquake caused further damage to the complex. An extensive repair and rebuilding program was undertaken in 1828 by the architect José Contreras and endowed by Ferdinand VII in 1830.
We arrived a hour early as directed for our 10:00 AM admission to the Nasrid palaces a key element of the Alhambra complex. We were very impressed with the history, scope and beauty of this complex. We stayed until about 2 PM.
I’ll let my pictures tell the story.
After we returned to the room to relax and then headed out for another walk.
While strolling I stopped in to an Orange Mobile store and swapped out our French Simms for Spanish ones to cut down on data charges. Last month Free Mobile our French cell provider hit us with a $200 data overage charge which is outrageous on a $20 Eu monthly plan.
We had dinner at the Nemrut cafe again. After we took an evening walk around town hitting an interesting basilica –Basilica de Nuestra Senora de las Angustias and an archeological museum.
The construction of the Basilica of Angustias began in 1617 under the supervision of Juan Luis Ortega. It has a nave, transept, and chancel with eight sides. Its facade is flanked by two tall towers with pinnacles covered with tiles, and on the front there is an alcove that houses a “Pieta” by Bernardo and Jose de Mora.
Inside the Basilica of Angustias, there are shelves on which stand statues of the Apostles, the work of Pedro Duque Cornejo, as well as paintings by artists of the Baroque school of Granada, such as Juan Leandro de la Fuente, Ambrosio Martinez and Miguel Jeronimo de Cieza, and other retablos.
In the centre of altarpiece is the image of Our Lady of Sorrows. .
We returned home after a full day in Granada.
Granada Spain Day 1 – Monday January 31, 2022
Up at 8 AM to catch a 9 AM train to Malaga Bus station to take a 10 AM train to Granada just over ah hour and a half bus ride (Cost 10.5 eu each).
We arrived just before noon and took a taxi to the hotel (Vincci Albayzin) 59 Eu/ night for check in. Dropped the bags and headed out to explore the city.
Granada is a city in southern Spain’s Andalusia region, in the foothills of the Sierra Nevada mountains. It’s origin date back to the 5th century BCE.
It is known for grand examples of medieval architecture dating to the Moorish occupation, especially the Alhambra. This sprawling hilltop fortress complex encompasses royal palaces, serene patios, and reflecting pools from the Nasrid dynasty, as well as the fountains and orchards of the Generalife gardens.
We immediately found the city to be very charming and interesting with its Moorish influence. The highlight is the Alhambra, which we will visit tomorrow.
We explored the city walking through the Alcaiceria – an Ancient Arab Market with its narrow streets, colorful merchandise and exotic smells and ending up with a steep climb to the Plaza Cementerio de San Nicolas a populas tourist spot which gives a stunning view of the city and the palace buildings on the hill.
Returning to the city center we had an excellent late lunch at Nemrut cafe. A real deal at a total bill of 12.5 Eu.
Rebecca suggested that we extend our stay by a day to which I readily agreed.
Torremolinos, Spain – Wednesday, January 26, 2022
Tickets, Malaga and Billions, with a side order of Hulu.
After two frustrating days on the various travel websites trying to book a trip to Seville, I finally needed to talk to a real person. Hence we did a short train ride to the Malaga train station to visit the Alsa ticket window.
Mission accomplished. We are on for a two day visit to Seville early next week.
Rebecca took this success and Malaga visit to indulge in her two passions – coffee and books as we visited Starbucks and Casa Libre while walking around the city admiring the architecture and street art.
We also stopped in at Casa Lola, again to be mildly disappointed, again, with the food.
As dusk approached we returned via train with the intention of watching Billions on Showtime which we had signed up for the previous day.
Trying to log into Hulu was unsuccessful just as it had been in the past. Hulu has some real issues. So we cancelled Hulu and Showtime and bought the episodes from Amazon Prime.
We are re-watching the last season of Billions to prepare for this new season.
Torremolinos, Spain – Tuesday, January 25, 2022
Today was take a long walk and find the Chicken Man day.
Rebecca and I set out for long walk to Fuengirola (Funky-o-la) along the sea walk. We didn’t bother to check the map because we knew that it was south of Benalmadena, which we had walked to before. Turns out it was quite a bit farther than we thought.
The day was quite windy and overcast with the temps in the mid 50’s.
On the way we passed through Benalmadena where we stopped for lunch at a sea side restaurant- The Wigam Bar. The food was good and the bill came to around 15 EU.
We continued on a bit and came across a few surfers riding the waves. The path itself had several interesting mosaics.
The wind was becoming very strong and it was getting a bit cold along the shore so we headed uphill into town, abandoning our original goal of Fuengirola which we learned was an additional 8 KM away.
We were getting close to our 10K steps for the day so I asked Google Maps to get us to the local train station. It was a rather steep walk up hills to reach the center of town and the station.
Once at the station I purchased return train tickets for 1.5 Eu each and Rebecca suggested we explore the town while there. Turns out that was a good idea.
Backstory- Two years ago we took the train from Malaga south and got off when we discovered a cable car lift to the top of a nearby mountain. The view we great and afterwards we chanced across a rotisserie chickens take away stand that had great chicken.
On this trip, we had been racking our brains to remember exactly where the Chicken Man was located.
Well, during our walk about in Benalmadena I finally found the Chicken Man!- el Pollo Dorado. He was a block from the train station. Mystery solved. There was a line of customer and we scored one of the last chickens that hour.
We grabbed a take away chicken and headed home via the train after our long walk.
Any day can be an adventure.
Torremolinos, Spain – Sunday, January 23, 2022
Winner, winner, chicken dinner …
Just a routine day here.
Wake up to the persistent waves of the sea serenading our balcony.
I took a hike to the bull ring to catch the weekly Flea Market scoring two small desk clocks at 2 Eu each and 2 lbs. of fresh strawberries for 2 EU.
Joined Rebecca on the sea boardwalk for lunch at a sea side restaurant – Two half chickens with salad and fries for 7.5 EU each.
Wandered home through town.
Torremolinos, Spain – Saturday, January 22, 2022
Today was hair day for Rebecca and me.
I got a trim, my first since we left the US back in late August. Yes, it was overdue. The guy did a nice job. Cost 12 eu so I gave him a 20 Eu. He was very grateful.
Rebecca got a cut and color.
After that a walk along the boardwalk, the day was windy with significant waves, high 50’s temp.
Gibraltar – Wednesday, January 19, 2022
Top of the rock …
We got up early today for a bus ride to Gibraltar (25 Eu each). Our pick up time was 7:15 AM at a bus stop a few blocks away.
The ride took over 3 hours as we picked up people along the way. The ride was beautiful as we traveled along the coast as the sun came up.
Gibraltar is a British Overseas Territory and headland, on Spain’s south coast. It’s dominated by the Rock of Gibraltar, a 426m-high limestone ridge. First settled by the Moors in the Middle Ages and later ruled by Spain, the outpost was ceded to the British in 1713.
The six square kilometres of the Rock of Gibraltar are steeped in history, from the very beginning around 100,000 years ago when primitive humans and Neanderthals fished the shoreline and inhabited the limestone caves, to visiting Phoenician and later Roman seafarers. It was the Moors of Tarek ibn Ziyad however that first settled the Rock in 711AD, and since then, this much-prized site and its people have witnessed many sieges and battles over the centuries.
Layers of fortifications include the remains of a 14th-century Moorish Castle and the 18th century Great Siege Tunnels, which were expanded in WWII
Arriving in Gibraltar the cars and busses have to drive across an active airport runway.
Because it is a different country we had to go through immigration and customs.
Once there we had about 5 hours to explore the country which is very small and dominated by the famous rock of Gibraltar. The history of Gibraltar is very interesting due to it strategic location of the Strait of Gibraltar. Its boundaries were known in antiquity as the Pillars of Hercules.
There are military tunnels which were carved into the solid limestone which were used for defensive purposes for hundreds of years.
The town itself is rather quaint and features a combination of English and Moorish influences. Rebecca found it enchanting.
It was also refreshing to be able to speak English and see products with English labels. I found myself answering with “Gracias” and “Merci” on occasion in spite of being addressed in English out of habit.
The cable car to the top of the rock was down for two weeks of maintenance so we hired a taxi for a tour of the rock. It included the tunnels, a cave and the famous wild monkeys. Our tour guide, Max, was a multigeneration resident to Gibraltar and very knowledgeable. Our personal tour cost 90 EU which included access to the gardens.
The view from the top is amazing as one can see the coast of Spain, Africa (Morocco) and the Strait.
Our bus was scheduled to leave at 3:15 PM to return. Of course we got lost finding the bus and arrived 5 minutes late as the last people to arrive. Ooops. Not a big deal but a fair amount of scurrying on our part to find the damn bus.
Overall it was quite a memorable day exploring the famous rock of Gibraltar.
Malaga, Spain – Tuesday, January 18, 2022
I had to travel to the train station in Malaga to get train tickets for our Seville trip. The Málaga María Zambrano station is essentially a large mall.
While there I walked around the port and city for a few hours and visited the Malaga’s “La Manquita” ( The One-Armed Lady) Cathedral
Torremolinos, Spain – Monday, January 17, 2022
Today was another coffee mission for Rebecca. Instead of going into Malaga I took the train to Plaza Mayor an upscale outdoor shopping center 3 train stops away. There I scored 4 bags of coffee which should last her over an hour.
Torremolinos, Spain – Saturday, January 15, 2022
Today I took a long walk along the seashore from Torremolinos to Benalmadena and back.
Torremolinos, Spain – Thursday, January 13, 2022
The weather has been in the high 50’s with a strong wind which has made the waves quite large. It is wonderful to hear them crashing into the shore.
Torremolinos, Spain – Tuesday, January 11, 2022
Today we finalized some upcoming travel plans.
Our current Airbnb runs until Feb 10. We absolutely love it here with the large rooms, great location and amazing sea view. We can lie in bed and hear the waves below.
After that we have a week in Seville booked from Feb 10th to Feb 17th.
Originally founded as a Roman city and now home to three UNESCO World Heritage Sites, Seville is bursting with antique charm. The Alcazar palace complex is a stunning collage of architectural styles, and the Cathedral is famed for its beauty and its status as the burial site of Christopher Columbus. The Metropol Parasol is the world’s largest wooden structure, a massive mix of grids and swirls that contains a market and a terrace observatory.
We return to the same building in Torremolinos but different unit Feb. 17th to March 7th.
We will be flying back to Nice on March 7th to stay in a Airbnb booked thru May 11. This one is more in a residential part of Nice but a bit closer to the sea.
We are seriously considering a month in Venice Italy in September but have not locked that down yet.
The current plan is to find a long term place in the Nice area preferably with a nice sea view and spend a few winter months each year back on Spain Costa del Sol, probably somewhere in our current building in Torremolinos.
Being retired does not suck.
Torremolinos, Spain – Sunday, January 9, 2022
Today we were greeted with a beautiful Sunday morning sunrise.
I headed out to the weekly flea market at the Plaza de Toros. It was a 30 minute walk from our Airbnb. The day was warming up but also very windy. The vendors arrange their items on tarps and tables in the parking lot. It was interesting eavesdropping on the different languages being spoken.
I enjoy shooting photos at flea markets as there are always interesting thing to see – used items and farmers market produce. I snagged a bathroom scale for 5 EU and 1 KG of cherry tomatoes for 1.5 EU.
Later just after noon Rebecca and I decided to walk along the coast walkway. It took us past the restaurants bars, shops, harbor and into the next town Benalmádena. The weather was perfect in the low 70’s so we spent a few hours walking.
Another lovely day in Spain.
Malaga, Spain – Friday, January 7, 2022
Today we decided to take the train (C1) to Malaga a larger costal town a bit north of us. It is about a 25 minute ride for under 2.5 EU each way.
We arrived at the station about 10 minutes before our train was scheduled to leave and struck up a conversation with a nice lady from Sweden who seemed to be familiar with the train schedule. Our particular station is undergoing renovations so all trains leave from the same track. We waited a bit passed the scheduled time and finally a train approached. I asked the lady if this was our train to Malaga and she assured us that it was. We boarded together.
After passing two stops she quickly told us to get off as we were heading in the wrong direction. We jumped off and scurried via the undertrack passageway to the other track to find the correct train in the process of closing its doors. I waved to the engineer and mashed the door open button. Fortunately the door reopened and I held it for Rebecca who was doing her best to catch up. We made it in the nick of time.
I might add that the train seemed to be a more more crowded than usual. We were told that this is a big after Christmas sale day.
Our primary mission in visiting Malaga today was to resupply Rebecca with a sufficient amount of Starbuck Coffee to prevent any violent actions on her part. She was running dangerously low and I had to hide all the kitchen knives and other sharp objects from her.
After locating Starbucks and successfully preventing her inevitable incarceration we wandered around Malaga, a town we had twice visited on previous trips and really enjoyed. Oddly we both felt that our fondness for Malaga was a bit off this time.
One of our favorite places to eat there is called Casa Lola, a popular tapas place. We had a bit of trouble finding it but finally succeeded. We discovered that it helps to refer to it as Casa Lola and not Cafe Lola which seemed to confuse both us and Google Maps.
After getting seated the waiter requested our order. As we began to tell him what we wanted he interrupted to indicate that all he wanted at that time was our drink order. So we ordered a bottle of water (con gas). It was delivered with a small plate of olives.
And then we waited, and waited and waited to order our lunch. My best guess was that at least 20 minutes had passed and still no waiter. Finally we left 3 EU on the table for the 2.5 EU of water and walked out. We weren’t really that hungry anyway. More confirmation that the previous magic of Malaga was not to be with us this trip.
We continued our walk, checking out the Soho area and then returned to the train station for the C1 return to Torremolinos.
On the train we struck up a conversation with a chap who was visiting his family and was headed to the airport for a flight to the Canary Islands. He spoke highly of them. Possible future trip for us? Maybe.
It was nice returning to our place to enjoy the evening.
Torremolinos, Spain – Thursday, January 6, 2022
Everything is closed today for Los Reyes Magos, ( the three wise men ) a national holiday in Spain.
January 6: The arrival of los reyes magos
Los reyes magos traditionally bring gifts for Spanish children during the night on January 5. Much like the traditional milk and cookies for Santa Claus and his reindeer, Spanish children often set out plates of food or sweets for los reyes magos. The kings’ camels also receive dried grass or hay from the traditionalists, or milk and bread if those aren’t handy!
When kids throughout Spain wake up on the morning of the 6th, they find gifts from the Three Kings ready to open. (But only if they’ve been good—just like Santa Claus, los reyes magos bring coal for those on the naughty list!)
Traditional food for Three Kings Day in Spain
Throughout the holiday season, Spanish families enjoy multiple feasts that last for hours. Three Kings Day is no different. After opening the gifts from los reyes magos, it’s time to enjoy an elaborate lunch comprised of multiple courses and plenty of post-meal chatter, known as sobremesa.
A typical Three Kings Day lunch in Spain will likely start with some appetizers such as cheese and cured meats. The main course can vary depending on where you are in the country, but expect something hearty and filling, usually meat or seafood based. Just be sure to save room for dessert: the almighty roscón.
Roscón de Reyes: the Three Kings Day cake
The crown jewel of the los reyes magos celebration is exactly that: a crown-shaped dessert decorated with candy “jewels.” This is the roscón de reyes, a sweet bread-like cake often filled with cream and topped with dried fruits.
As for when to eat the roscón, that depends on who you ask. Some families dig into theirs as soon as they get home from the Three Kings Day parade on January 5. Others have it for breakfast on the morning of the 6th, and still others hold off until afternoon on Three Kings Day to have it for merienda, or the midday snack around 6 p.m.
Roscones can come in several different varieties, all of them delicious. Some are plain and come without any filling. Others contain fresh whipped cream, chocolate truffle cream, or even candied spaghetti squash (it’s better than it sounds!).
In addition, you’ll find two plastic-wrapped figurines inside the roscón: a dried fava bean and a small king-shaped figurine.
- Whoever gets the slice of the cake with the small king is the “king” or “queen” of the banquet. As a result, this person will have good luck for the rest of the year. Many roscones come with a paper or cardboard crown for this person to wear.
- On the other hand, whoever finds the fava bean has to pay for the roscón the next year!
I went out for a long walk today down the sea pathway toward the marina.
Afterwards Rebecca cooked a nice salmon dinner which we ate on our balcony.
Torremolinos, Spain – Wednesday, January 5, 2022
We were greeted at daybreak with a beautiful sunrise from our balcony.
I went out for a walk and chanced across some interesting street art. These are all executed with spray paint.
Rebecca and I also made two trips to Lidl for some additional provisions. Still amazed as the affordable prices.
The city is preparing for Los Reyes Magos – the arrival of the Three Wise Men, a national holiday in Spain tomorrow on Jan 6.
Today is also the last of the 12 days of Christmas.
Torremolinos, Spain – Tuesday, January 4, 2022
The day began a bit overcast as the sea mist obscured the sea view. However it burned off around noon and we hit the mid 60’s.
I went out in the AM to Lidl to get some more provisions and met Rebecca in the hall of our Airbnb just as she we leaving and I was returning. We teamed up and headed for a walk in town to catch some lunch.
We were rewarded with a nice Italian lunch (Ristorante Alby’s) at a very favorable price.
Afterwards we did a bit more exploring of the town and walked home along the seafront.
It was a beautiful day in Spain.
Torremolinos, Spain – Monday, January 3, 2022
Monday, 4:30AM wake up call to catch the 5:20 AM tram to the Nice airport (1 EU each) for our 8:15 AM flight. Made it with time to spare.
The sunrise at the Nice airport was quite spectacular.
Cleared security and had a hour and a half wait to board. Ooooops, not so fast
It seems that our bargain airline Vueling has a very strict policy on baggage even though we paid an additional 50 EU for 2 carry on bags. We were told our two carry on bags were too big and had to be tagged.
After I profusely apologized (to avoid an additional charge) our bags were tagged for Malaga and we were allowed to board last.
The flight to our connection in Barcelona went fine as did the final leg to Malaga. The airport in Barcelona was very quiet.
Luggage arrived as promised. Actually it was easier traveling without stowing the two carry on bags so no big deal.
Arriving in Malaga about 1:30 PM so we took the 2:15PM train to Torremolinos (3.5 EU) and was met by our Airbnb host who walked us to the apartment.
We selected this particular unit due to its location and view and we were not disappointed. We will be roughing it here for the next month.
Torremolinos, is on Spain’s Costa del Sol, about 15 minutes by taxi or 25 minutes by train from Malaga.
As the gateway to Costa del Sol, Torremolinos is a modern city preserving the great charms of the Andalusian tradition. Here visitors enjoy more than 300 sunny days every year, comfortable temperatures (avg. 19ºC/66ºF) and 7km of beaches along the sparkling Mediterranean.
We caught lunch at a popular tapas place downtown and then headed to Carrefour (a local grocery store) to load up on some provisions.
After our time here we have booked a week in Seville in February and expect to return to Nice in early March.