.3rd Chapter – Paris
NOTE- This is Chapter three – Paris & OFII meeting
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Chapter One – Montpellier
Chapter Two – Aix en Provence.
Montpellier – Thursday, December 2, 2021
Whew, got that done.
Today was a very important day on the road to our move to France.
As part of the long-stay visa process, we are required to report to the OFII office (L’Office français de l’immigration et de l’intégration) in the district where we originally registered and pass a health examination. It consists of a chest X-Ray and a doctor interview. That is why we had to travel from Paris and return to Montpellier before we move on to Nice.
We booked an Uber for a 7:30 AM pick-up and arrived at the X-ray facility a bit early. There we met a couple from Lansing Michigan and a mother and son originally from California. We had a nice chat about our experiences in France so far and American politics.
After the x-ray, we had to go across the street to another OFII office. After circumnavigating the building, following the signs and going to the wrong floor we left the building and retraced our steps.
We then heard a voice in french saying something. It turns out the door to the OFII had a large decal on it of people silhouettes which obscured the door itself. Opening it the correct location was revealed.
Well, we passed the OFII interview with flying colors and received our papers which will be required for our 1 year renewal of our long-stay visa. They offered to give us a COVID booster at 2 PM that day.
We took the nearby tram to the center of town. On the ride we decided that we should get our booster in Nice rather than Montpellier in case we had a reaction and tomorrow is a travel day. We visited the local tourist office and they offered to help us call the OFII and cancel the appointment. After 20 minutes on hold, we finally gave up.
Rebecca made a beeline to Starbucks for a doppio and I hastened to my favorite Montpellier boulangerie for a pair of sacristain.
Imagine if a croissant and a baguette had a baby, it would be a lovely light and crusty foot long pastry called a sacristain. Mind-boggling good and totally indulgent. Rebecca also snagged 3 bags of Starbucks coffee for the next leg of our trip.
After we set out to find a good place for lunch. After a 30 minute lost cause hike looking for a restaurant that was recommended we decided to go to a place we both knew- Bonobo, a place well respected for its breakfast offerings. We arrived a bit too late as all the inside tables were full. and it was too cold to sit outside (mid 30’s),.
We then headed offer to a place Bonobo recommended near the train station. We finally found it but didn’t like it so we went to plan C and headed off to one of my favorites – Les Fils a Maman We arrived just before it filled up and had an excellent lunch at a very favorable price. The day kept getting better and better.
Finally, we grabbed the #3 Tram home to our stop at Les Arceaux. It turned out that we were much closer to the town center than we thought.
Both being exhausted, we decided to stay in for the night.
We have a 12;45 PM TGV tomorrow to Marseille and then a connection to Nice for a 325 KM trip. We are looking forward to warmer weather for the winter.
Paris / Montpellier – Wednesday, December 1, 2021
We were packed up and ready to move out of our Paris place around noon. The final thing was to have an agent of the Airbnb come over and check us out. He arrived on time and was a delight.
Eric was an enthusiastic 18-year old who has lived in several interesting places around the world due to his mother’s job. He spoke fluent English, French and Italian. We chatted for a while and then he insisted on carrying our luggage down two flights of stairs and hailing us a taxi. What a gem.
We arrived at the Gare de Lyon in Paris for our 4:11 TGV to Montpellier. Because we were hauling all our stuff – a large and heavy checked bag, two large carry-on bags, and two personal bags we engages a porter with a cart. It was well worth the 10 EU for his help.
The train trip was comfortable as we booked first class on the TGV for the 3 hour, 750 KM ride. High-speed train is the way to go. Wake up US and get on board.
We arrived exactly at 7:26 PM, as scheduled took an Uber to our new Airbnb. Our driver, by the way, is a breakdancer who will be traveling to Paris to compete soon. He insisted on dragging our bags up the steep driveway up to our apt.
After checking in, we wandered around in the dark for a place to eat. We had no real idea where we were, and chanced across a shady-looking Pizza place on a well-lighted street. Rebecca had a potato casserole and I had a pizza. The food was surprisingly good. Seriously.
Paris – Tuesday, November 30, 2021
Rebecca is feeling and getting around better now that she has an ankle brace so we planned an outing. Her first choice was to visit the Pantheon but we noticed that it was closed. We later found out that they were preparing for the interment of Josephine Baker that night. Our second choice was to visit the Petit Palais.
The Petit Palais was Built for the Universal Exhibition of 1900, the building became in 1902 the Museum of Fine Arts of the City of Paris. It presents a beautiful collection of paintings, icons, sculptures, tapestries, furniture and works of art dating from Antiquity to the beginning of the 20th century. Can be found works by prestigious artists such as: Fragonard, David, Géricault, Delacroix, Courbet, Pissarro, Monet, Renoir, Sisley, Cézanne.
It was an amazing building housing some outstanding art. Even its floor and ceiling are works of art themselves.
After a few hours there we took a taxi (Tesla) to a great little restaurant Il etait un Square featuring incredible hamburgers which were also a work of art.
Afterward, it was home to the Airbnb to pack for tomorrow’s TGV trip to Montpellier.
Paris – Monday, November 29, 2021
This was a good day for Rebecca. She found a foot specialist so we went there first thing in the AM. Diagnosis- injured foot ligament.
We picked up an ankle brace and headed off to bunch at HolyBelly for pancakes. Excellent choice and her first venture out of our Airbnb in several days.
Rebecca was beaming.
We leave on Wednesday via TGV for Montpellier and our OFII interview on Thursday. and then Friday, Nov 3rd to Nice for the month of December and warmer weather.
Paris – Saturday, November 27, 2021
Another rainy day in Paris…
With Rebecca confined to the couch, I headed out for another day of exploration. The weather was cold and rainy.
First, stop the Conciergerie.
The Conciergerie was once a royal residence for various French leaders. At the end of the 14th century, King Charles V and the rest of the palace’s inhabitants moved to new residences at the Louvre. The abandoned building was then turned into a new parliament and office space for the kingdom. However, during the French Revolution (and for many decades thereafter), the Conciergerie served as a prison compound to hold both political and common criminals. Most famously, it held Marie Antoinette, the fallen queen of France, in the weeks before she was executed by guillotine in October 1793. In the 19th century, Antoinette’s cell was transformed into a chapel, and in 1914 the entire building was deemed a historic monument and opened to the public.
After this visit, I noticed another big church so I wandered over to investigate. It was Église Saint-Eustache.
The Eglise Saint-Eustache in the heart of Les Halles is one of the most visited churches in Paris. It is known for its unusually large dimensions, which make it seem more like a cathedral than a church, and the wealth of art works it houses. The church was built in 1532 and subsequently restored in 1840, and therefore uses a variety of styles: the façade is Gothic, while the interior is in the Renaissance and classical styles. The organ of Saint-Eustache is the biggest pipe organ in France, and its resident organist gives a free concert on Sunday afternoons. In keeping with its longstanding tradition of classical music, the church hosts performances all year round by symphony orchestras and choral ensembles such as Chœurs de Radio France and the Orchestre National de France
Again the internal dimensions are impossible to describe via photos.
On the way home I did a few more shots.
Paris – Friday, November 26, 2021
A tale of two churches…
Rebecca’s ankle is giving her a bit of trouble so I assigned her bed rest today(actually couch rest).
I set out to see a few Paris sights, heading over to the Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann
Some have called Galeries Lafayette the most beautiful shopping center in the world, pointing out that even if you aren’t there to buy luxury products, the stunning building is a destination in itself. They also recommend going up to the roof of the complex, which is open to visitors free of charge, to take in breathtaking views of the city below.
Well, I made it about halfway there when the camera on my new iPhone stopped working. My mood suddenly turned sour. I immediately Googled the nearest Apple store and headed there.
Arriving about 11 AM and was able to snag a 2:45 PM appointment as the earliest available. Time on my hands.
I noticed a large church nearby so I stopped in to visit Eglise Saint-Sulpice. I wandered around a bit frustrated as I did to have use of my camera.
Known as the Cathedral of the Rive Gauche, the Church of Saint Sulpice is located in the Odeon Quarter of the sixth arrondissement. With Notre Dame’s closing, it’s the largest church in Paris that is able to celebrate Mass and welcome visitors, and it’s temporarily serving as the city’s cathedral.
It was built in the 17th century, with foundations from the 12th century. The Eglise Saint-Sulpice is one of the sites in Paris where the ‘Da Vinci Code’ by Dan Brown, best seller in 2003, was filmed.
After leaving the church it occurred to me to reboot my phone to see if that helped. Rebooting seemed to correct the problem so I headed back to the church and its mammoth proportions.
Here is some of what I saw.
With time still on my hands, I noticed another nearby large church and headed there. It was Saint–Germain–des–Prés.
In the centre of the Saint-Germain-des-Prés neighbourhood, the abbey of the same name, founded in 543, is the oldest church in Paris. It is sort of a dean to the Parisian religious monuments which towers over this quite illustrious neighbourhood, which became famous in a time not so far away thanks to the writings of Jean-Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir and also the trumpet of Boris Vian.
On both counts, the scale of these churches are very difficult to convey with pictures. They several sanctuaries each of which would be large in a regular-sized church.
After my pilgrimage, I made it to the Apple store, had my iPhone diagnosed and it was pronounced fit. Apparently, the rebooting did the trick.
It started to drizzle so I wandered home. On the way, I spied a few interesting things.
Paris – Thursday, November 25, 2021
Thanksgiving Day, but not here.
It seems that commemorating the Pilgrim’s feast with Indians in Plymouth Plantation is not a cause for celebration here in France. Much more attention today was paid to all the Black Friday sales which do gain attention this time of year.
Thursday is Market Day in our neighborhood. It is a fun activity to see locals visit the various outdoor booths buying their daily produce and seeking special values.
Markets combine products from area farmers and artisans, and offer a mind-boggling array of choices, from the perishable (produce, meats, cheeses, breads, and pastries) to the nonperishable (kitchen wares, inexpensive clothing, brightly colored linens, and pottery). But more than just a place to shop, markets are a window into how the French relate to each other.
Most markets take place once a week in the town’s main square; larger markets spill into nearby streets. Usually, the bigger the market, the greater the overall selection — particularly of nonperishable goods.
Markets begin at about 8 a.m., with setup commencing in the predawn hours. They usually end by 1 p.m. — in time for lunch, allowing the town to reclaim its streets and squares. Wares are displayed with pride. Generally, the rule is “don’t touch” — instead, point and let the vendor serve you. If self-serve is allowed, the seller will hand you a biodegradable bag. Many vendors speak enough English to assist you in your selection.
I snagged a new cap (12 EU) and a pair of leather gloves (10 EU) as well as a rotisserie chicken (which are surprisingly expensive at 10-15 EU each).
Paris – Wednesday, November 24, 2021
A movie (set) and a dinner …
Another sunny but cool day.
Today we visited the home of Victor Hugo which is just a few blocks away in the Place des Vosges. He had impressive digs.
Victor-Marie Hugo, (born February 26, 1802, Besançon, France—died May 22, 1885, Paris), poet, novelist, and dramatist who was the most important of the French Romantic writers. Though regarded in France as one of that country’s greatest poets, he is better known abroad for such novels as Notre-Dame de Paris (1831) and Les Misérables (1862).
Hugo’s enormous output is unique in French literature; it is said that he wrote each morning 100 lines of verse or 20 pages of prose. “The most powerful mind of the Romantic movement,” as he was described in 1830, laureate and peer of France in 1845, he went on to assume the role of an outlawed sage who, with the easy consciousness of authority, put down his insights and prophetic visions in prose and verse, becoming at last the genial grandfather of popular literary portraiture and the national poet who gave his name to a street in every town in France.
Yesterday we noticed that just down the block they were setting up for some sort of movie shoot, having filled the cobblestone street with dirt. So today we revisited the set which was just down the block from Vic’s place. We did not find out what was being shot but it was fun seeing actors in period dress.
Later that evening we joined up with Charles, our original Paris friend, for a long-awaited dinner. He joined us at Gemma the restaurant we first met him at. We had an enjoyable evening discussing favorite TV shows, movies, and current events. He was a delight.
Paris – Tuesday, November 23, 2021
The dead-end was only the beginning …
Today was a bright sunny but cold day (low 40’s) in Paris as winter’s teeth are beginning to show.
I decided at the last minute to visit the Paris Catacombs. The 25-minute Metro trip took me from the #5 Bastile stop to the line’s end at Place d’Italie, then a transfer to the #6 to the Denfert-Rochereau stop.
After circumnavigating the entire area on foot searching for the Catacomb’s entrance I finally gave in and asked Google Maps for directions. Once there I was informed that advance tickets were the only way to enter that day.
Blan B was to explore this new area and walk back to get my steps for the day. It was about an hour’s walk.
Rebecca had planned to do some serious shopping as her heel was mending well and she was getting stir crazy sitting in the Airbnb. As I navigated my way back I did a few shots.
Approaching home I called Rebecca and suggested that we catch a late lunch outside to celebrate her increased mobility. She readily agreed and we met up at a Place des Vosges restaurant. Our efforts were rewarded with what Rebecca described as terrible food -French onion soup and Beef Bourguignon. The side order of French fries was good but not independently worth the meals 70 EU cost.
I accompanied Rebecca as she did some shopping, in an attempt to bank some serious partner points. After the required trip to Starbucks and an artisan boulangerie, we returned home as dusk fell.
Paris – Sunday, November 21, 2021
Down in the ‘hood…
Today was a quite cool drizzly day so I thought I tell you a bit about our ‘hood.
Our Airbnb is in a neighborhood called the Marais district which includes the Place des Vosges, which was featured on the back of the 5 Fr note with Victor Hugo and Église Saint–Paul Saint–Louis du Marais church.
Place des Vosges, located mostly in the 4th district, was originally called place Royale. The square was renamed after the French Revolution in tribute to the north-east region of Vosges, bordering Germany and Luxembourg, which was the first to pay taxes imposed by the new government.
A stroll in the Marais without admiring the place des Vosges is like a walk on the Champs Elysees without seeing the Arc de Triomphe! The composition of the Place des Vosges epitomizes the classic French style and is a unique example of seventeenth century architecture. Originally the terrace was covered with sand to allow aristocrats to indulge in equestrian exercises. A statue of Louis XIII was erected in the square, then destroyed in 1792 after the fall of the monarchy ; it was replaced by an octagonal fountain. It took until the early nineteenth century for the royal equestrian statues as well as that of Louis XIII, destroyed during the Revolution, to once again be rebuilt.
Place des Vosges is structured around two pavilions, that of the Queen at the north part of the square, and that of the King at the south part. They are not open to the public ; however, you can still visit the house of Victor Hugo, author of “Les Misérables”, which is now a municipal museum. It is free and open daily from 9am to 6pm every day except Monday.
Many art galleries line the Place des Vosges. Their large windows are open invitations to enter and discover their treasures, and their owners will be pleased to introduce you to the artists.
On the other side of the square, a small private door, open during the day, will give you access to the garden of the fabulous Hotel de Sully, headquarters of the Center for National Monuments. The Center is home to an excellent library on the history of Paris which offers occasional photographic exhibitions on architecture and the arts.
We are staying on the second floor of a walk-up in a one-bedroom apt with a small balcony. https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/42351778?source_impression_id=p3_1637514789_28o4w1yRnRD2pbwz&guests=1&adults=1
Like much of Paris it feels a lot like NY City, but with a soul. It is not nearly as frantic as NYC, with much less car traffic and many bicycles with dedicated lanes for them in the street. The sidewalks are filled with retail shops, fruit markets, and many, many pharmacies. We will be here until the end of the month.
Paris Flea Market Day – Saturday, November 20, 2021
Today was my Paris Flea market day (Les Puces). To get there I took the #5 Metro (Bastile) to Gare du Nord, and transfer to #4 Metro to its end at Porte de Clignancort – an easy 40-minute trip.
The market to me was a cross between Maxwell Street and Kane County Markets – a lot of garage quality stuff PLUS some very interesting gems. There were also a lot of questionable origin things as one might expect. I bagged a 7 EU T-shirt and a micro USB charging cable for 2 EU.
Some fun with the t-shirt.
I came across a table of decent-looking t-shirts priced at 15 EU each. I offered the lady 5 EUs and we agreed on 7 EUs. I gave her a 10 EU note and she returned a 2 EU coin. I looked at it, looked at her, and said “ah, hem” expecting an additional 1 Eu coin. She looked at me and grabbed the 15 EU sign and shrugged. I laughed and relinquished my claim on the final EU in reward for her chutzpah.
Here is some of what I saw.
After retracing my path I returned via the Metro and treated myself to a sushi lunch.
At home, Rebecca is reporting even more progress on her ankle and is anxious to finally go outside to explore her beloved city of Paris.
Paris – Friday, November 19, 2021
Off to the Place du Panthéon to visit Voltaire, Victor Hugo, the Curies and others…
Today’s adventure was to visit the Place du Panthéon which was modeled after its namesake in Rome.
The temple of the French nation.
With the Pantheon, architect Jacques-Germain Soufflot met Louis XV’s wish to glorify the monarchy in the form of a church dedicated to Saint Geneviève, the patron saint of Paris. The Revolution in 1789 transformed the monument into a temple for Great Men. During the turbulent years of the 19th century, as regimes changed, it alternated in its role as a religious and patriotic monument. Since 1885, the year of Victor Hugo’s death and burial in the Pantheon, it has been the last resting place for the great writers, scientists, generals,
churchmen and politicians who have made the history of France. The crypt houses the tombs of more than 70 illustrious figures including Voltaire, Jean-Jacques Rousseau, Emile Zola, Alexandre Dumas, Pierre and Marie Curie.
Like other impressive French monuments, its scale was massive. It is also the place that the Foucault pendulum was used to demonstrate the rotation of the earth in the 1850s. A copy was in motion today.
After visiting the Curie’s crypts at the Pantheon, I headed over to the Musée Curie a few blocks away to check in on their laboratory.
The Radium Institute, whose construction began in 1911, included a physics and chemistry laboratory directed by Marie Curie and a medicine and biology laboratory entrusted to Doctor Claudius Regaud. On the ground floor of the Curie pavilion of the former Radium Institute, the Curie museum presents objects, photographs and documents on the history of radioactivity and its medical applications, as well as on life and work of “the family of five Nobel prizes”. Many scientific instruments used until the end of the 1930s are on display, in particular those which made it possible to artificially produce radioelements for the first time in the world. It was in this place, in fact, that in January 1934, Frédéric and Irène Joliot-Curie discovered artificial radioactivity.
Rebecca is reporting that her ankle is feeling much better and I am nagging her to use her crutch to walk,
Paris – Thursday, November 18, 2021
That’s the ticket…
As a requirement for our long-stay visa, we are required to report to the local prefecture for a medical exam and interview by the OFII (Office of French Immigration and Integration). Because we used our Montpellier Airbnb address we need to return there for this process. We had been wondering when this would be scheduled.
Yesterday we received notification that this process is to be conducted on December 2. This worked out perfectly for us as we are transitioning to Nice for our December visit at that same time.
So today I went to the main Paris train station Gare de Lyon and exchanges our original Paris to Nice tickets for a Dec 1st set Paris to Montpellier and a December 3rd set Montpellier to Nice. We have booked two nights in Montpellier to accommodate the 8 AM December 2nd appointment.
On the way home I passed the pizza place (Gemma) where we had dinner with Charles our Paris friend when we first arrived in France. I stopped in for lunch in his honor. We have been trying to reconnect with him before we leave Paris and had dinner scheduled there for tonight but Rebecca’s ankle has forced us to move it back a week.
Some street art I passed walking home from the train station.
Mont St. Michel– Tuesday, November 16, 2021
Our trip to the Mont-Saint-Michel was originally scheduled for Wednesday but on Monday we received a call informing us that they were underbooked for that date but they could either move us up to the Tuesday trip or we could rebook. The weather looked good for Tuesday so we agreed and moved it forward a day.
The Mont-Saint-Michel is one of Europe’s most unforgettable sights. Set in a mesmerising bay shared by Normandy and Brittany, the mount draws the eye from a great distance.
This staggeringly beautiful location has long captured the imagination. The story of how the mount came to be a great Christian pilgrimage site dates back to the early 8th century, when Aubert, bishop of the nearby hilltop town of Avranches, claimed that the Archangel Michael himself had pressured him into having a church built atop the island just out to sea.
From 966 onwards, the dukes of Normandy, followed by the French kings, supported the development of a major Benedictine abbey on Mont-Saint-Michel. Magnificent monastic buildings were added throughout the Middle Ages, one vertiginous wing in particular being nicknamed the Marvel. The Abbey of the Mont-Saint-Michel became a renowned centre of learning, attracting some of the greatest minds and manuscript illuminators in Europe. Vast numbers of pilgrims visited, despite endless cross-Channel conflict; in fact, the ramparts at the base of the island were built to keep the English forces out.
We arose at 5;30 AM to arrive at the France Tourist Travel agency pick-up spot by 7 AM. We took the Metro to the Louver Rivoli stop and walked across the street. There we met the other two families joining us. One was a son and mother from Mexico, The other was a father, mother and son from Singapore. The tour was in English.
Our driver and guide was named Serge, an interesting French fellow who had lived in Mexico for 8 years on a project photographing the restoration of ruins deep in the jungle. He was great.
We left on time for the 3.5-hour van ride. On the way there we passed several interesting waypoints including the Normandy region and several castles.
We arrived about 10:30 AM and were impressed as we approached the site. It sits on an island and is approachable during low tide. The place is just amazing. Our guide led us on a tour of the sounding village which leads up to the Abby as we prepared for our 11 AM entrance slot. The village itself took us back in time.
As we climbed up the steep steps and approached the entrance Rebecca had a mishap that resulted in a swollen ankle and required evacuation by the EMT crew to a nearby hospital for evaluation. We both had a great view of the place from the rear window of an ambulance. Our tour guide was incredible helping us all the way and translating for the French paramedics. He stayed with us until the ambulance left.
The good news was that it occurred at the perfect place, the entrance, where help was readily available. We spent a few hours at the hospital and were released in time for the tour bus to retrieve us for the ride home at 5 PM. We had added a bit of excitement to their trip.
Pulling in to Paris at 8 PM we were treated to a speculator light show at la tour Eiffel. A nice welcome back.
Loire Valley Chateau Day– Sunday, November 14, 2021
A tale of three cities
Today we took a Loire valley Chateau tour. We pre-booked an Uber the night before for a 6:45 AM pick-up. Around 6:15 AM we received a text from Uber informing us that there were no rides available. Yikes. So we quickly left our Airbnb and grabbed a taxi, getting to our pick-up place (the Catacombs) a few minutes early.
The word “château” covers everything from medieval dungeons and fortresses to the country houses that grace many wine estates. France’s historic monuments agency lists 6,450 châteaux or manor houses, 900 of them owned by the state, the rest in private hands, many of them owned by families that have lived in them for generations. Some are big, some are relatively small.
With our English-speaking guide, we were joined by two other couples one from Atlanta and one from Florida, for the ride to our first Chateau – Chambord.
King François I decided to build his château at Chambord in 1519, on marshy land on the banks of the river Cosson, in the middle of a particularly bounteous hunting forest. He requested a “very large, beautiful and sumptuous building,” that would allow him to satisfy his passion for hunting and high living. Fascinated and influenced by the Italian arts and artists, he built this château, which combines French and Italian influences.
The sixth Italian war, which ended in the defeat of Pavia, interrupted work between 1522 and 1526. When François I returned from his campaigns, work started again and continued without interruption for 20 years, until his death in 1547.
In 1539, Emperor Charles V was received by the king in the tower which was still under construction at the time. The so-called “royal wing” was added to the eastern side and the chapel wing was added to the west. Work continued under the reign of François’ son Henry II and grandson Charles IX. The château as we see it today was finally completed by King Louis XIV in 1685.
From there we traveled to the medieval town of Blois .
Blois has taken advantage of the river Loire since the Middle Ages. A fortified town at the time, thrived on the river trade of wines and spirits. At the dawn of the Renaissance, the city experienced a spectacular rise when Louis XII decided to make it the political capital of the kingdom in 1498. He established his court in the family château, built on the rocky spur that dominates the city.
To accommodate his ministers and courtiers at this time of economic success and artistic creativity, medieval traditions were abandoned. The half-timbered houses, of which there are still many magnificent examples, such as the Maison des Acrobats, were gradually replaced by stone mansions in richly decorated brick and stone.
We decided to explore the town rather than tour the chateau Blois.
Finally, we visited Chateau Chenonceau , which was beautiful and on impressive grounds. We ended our day with a private wine tasting.
A crown property, then a royal residence, the Château de Chenonceau is an exceptional site, for its original design and the richness of its collections, its furniture and its decoration. It is also unusual for having been owned, administered and protected by a number of extraordinary women, who made their mark on history.
The ‘Château des Dames” has been particularly influenced by important women. Built in 1513 by Katherine Briçonnet, it was extended successively by Diane de Poitiers and Catherine de Medici. Chenonceau was saved from the destruction of the Revolution by Madame Dupin. This feminine influence is present everywhere, preserving the château from conflict and war, always a haven of peace.
Paris – Friday, November 12, 2021
Patrick goes Postal.
Rebecca is still feeling a bit under the weather so I picked a destination that may not appeal to her. My choice – Musée de La Poste– The postal museum.
Of all the museums in the world I’ve visited, this was one of them. That’s basically it. It was a bit quirky and befuddling as all the exhibits are in French to no surprise. But for 5 EU admission, it was a good reason for a 12K walk to get there and back.
The musée de La Poste, renovated in 2019 by the Jung Architecture studio, has been installed since 1973 in the heart of the Montparnasse district. It is centered on writing, history and culture. From seven leagues boots to the heroes of Aéropostale, to the 150-year-old postage stamp panorama in France, the La Poste museum’s collections tell a story, not only of a company but also of France everyday. The permanent collections, exhibited on three levels and articulated around a “Totem”, present the historical, artistic, philatelic and scientific heritage constituted by pieces of collections as diverse as the first maps of the post routes, the uniforms of factors, artist models, postage stamps, popular items and finally a large collection of mail art and postal art.
On the way home I wondered through the Jardin du Luxembourg.
Situated on the border between Saint-Germain-des-Prés and the Latin Quarter, the Luxembourg Gardens, inspired by the Boboli Gardens in Florence, were created upon the initiative of Queen Marie de Medici in 1612. The gardens, which cover 25 hectares of land, are split into French gardens and English gardens. Between the two, lies a geometric forest and a large pond. There is also an orchard with a variety of old and forgotten apples, an apiary for you to learn about bee-keeping and greenhouses with a collection of breathtaking orchids and a rose garden. The garden has 106 statues spread throughout the park, the monumental Medici fountain, the Orangerie and the Pavillon Davioud. There are many activities and facilities for children such as puppets, rides and slides. Adults, whether they are Parisians or tourists, can play chess, tennis, and bridge or remote control boats.
I also chanced across a group of people dancing in the street.
Paris – Friday, November 12, 2021
Today was Louvre Day.
It is impossible to convey the size and scope of this place. It was started in 1546 as a place for Frances I art collection and also served as the royal residence for Louis XIV in 1682. At one time it was also a fortress and expanded significantly over the centuries.
Paris – Thursday, November 11, 2021
Today is a national holiday in France –Armistice Day, commemorating the end of WWI. Nov 11 is also the feast day of the patron saint of France’s, Saint Martin.
Tomorrow is our visit to the Louvre.
Paris – Wednesday, November 10, 2021
Rebecca is still feeling a bit under the weather with her persistent cold virus so I selected two museums to visit today which may not have appealed to her.
Musée Carnavalet which features a history of the city of Paris. It is housed in two adjacent mansions. It included several amazing recreations of Parisian aristocratic rooms.
The museum is devoted to the history of Paris and set in the heart of the Marais, has been under renovation works for over 4 years. It is one of the oldest museums in Paris since it has been created in 1880: its collection, included over 610,000 rare items, tells about the history of the French capital from the Antiquity to the 20th century. It recently reopened in May 2021 after 4 years of renovation.
After visiting this today and reporting back, Rebecca decided to visit it herself.
Musée des Arts et Métiers, which features many cool industrial and scientific items. It was founded in 1794. On display was the first sea clock by Ferdinand Berthoud, a Cray supercomputer, the laboratory of Antoine Lavoisier the father of modern chemistry, and a model of a Jacquard loom patented in 1804 which used punch cards to program a weaving loom. It was the inspiration for Lovelace and Babbage’s Analytical Engine.
The Musée des Arts et Métiers is an industrial design museum in Paris that houses the collection of the Conservatoire national des arts et métiers, which was founded in 1794 as a repository for the preservation of scientific instruments and inventions.
We also contacted our Paris friend, Charles, and we are setting up a dinner with him. It will be nice to see him again.
Paris – Tuesday, November 9, 2021
Day of the Dead…
Today was my hang with the celebrities Day at Pére-Lachaise cemetery.
After wandering around on my own for an hour a guy (Raphel) came up to me and said “come this way”. He proceeded to take me on a two-hour speed walk throughout the cemetery pointing out many famous graves. He told me that he loved taking people on a tour of this cemetery and knew many shortcuts in this sprawling area. His English was barely passable so I understood about half of what he was saying.
One of the interesting points of interest he noted was that people are allowed to be buried there for 100 years after which unless they are famous, their bodies are removed, cremated and the ashes spread under a tree. This may or may not be true.
When we finished I offered him 10 Eu for his time. He looked at me and said “Little Money”. I understood this as meaning that I was offering too much so I tried to hand him a 5. Again he said “Little Money”.
I was still confused so took out Google translate and had it translate “is this enough? He spoke his answer into Google Translate but it had no idea what he was saying either.
Finally, I was able to decipher that he wanted more money, much more money, about 50 EU for the tour that I had not requested. So I expertly translated his request as being for 15 EU and handed him a 5 and a 10 EU note.
He looked disappointed until I told him that my wife controls the money and she would not approve more than 15 EU. Finally, he seemed to understand my money constraint like any man with a wife would.
Opened in 1804, Père Lachaise is the world’s most visited cemetery. Its 70,000 ornate tombs of the rich and famous form a verdant, 44-hectare sculpture garden Its combination of celebrity graves, haunting statues, and photo-worthy cobblestone lanes make it a top Paris attraction as well as the most visited burial ground in the world, attracting around 3.5 million visitors each year.
Wander along the winding paths crisscrossing the cemetery’s rolling slopes, and you’ll see elaborate sepulchers, family chapels, and poignant memorials featuring some of the world’s best funerary architecture and art in an astounding array of styles: Romanesque, Medieval Gothic, Neoclassic, Italian Renaissance, Second Empire, Eastern Orthodox domes, and Art Nouveau, just to name a few. An increasing number of sleekly contemporary granite slabs act as reminders that Père Lachaise continues to welcome new permanent residents.
Almost everywhere you look, you’ll spot sculptures of every size and shape imaginable: plump winged cherubs, macabre skulls flanked by what appear to be bat wings, scantily clad women sprawled across tombstones, disembodied heads of famous men. Many are beautiful and touching; some are downright weird.
If you’re a nature lover, you’ll appreciate the beauty of the cemetery’s specimen trees, beautiful plants, birds, and other wildlife. Historians will swoon over the wide swath of French cultural, political, and scientific achievements represented by the illustrious occupants.
But if you’re like most first-time visitors to this “City of the Dead,” you probably want to see the graves of famous people buried here.
And you’ll find plenty. Jim Morrison of The Doors draws the biggest crowds among Americans. Among UK visitors, Oscar Wilde’s tomb attracts avid fans. Opera lovers from everywhere pay homage at the columbarium niche of Maria Callas. And singer Edith Piaf is a perennial favorite of French visitors, while Ahmet Kaya’s memorial is a current attraction.
There are plenty more: stage and movie stars such as Sarah Bernhardt, Simone Signoret, and Yves Montand, writers, artists, and composers like Colette, Gertrude Stein, Modigliani, Chopin, and Rossini, and numerous politicians, philosophers, scientists, revolutionaries, inventors, gourmands, military heroes, and business tycoons.
There were many interesting monuments and stained glass there here are some shots.
While I was away we had a handyman stop by to make a few repairs to our Airbnb. Rebecca successfully communicated the details to him in French which I am very proud to report.
Paris – Monday, November 8, 2021
Today’s walk was toward the Arc de Triomphe passing just outside the Louvre and through the Jardin des Tuileries and the Avenue des Champs-Élysées. It was an hour’s walk on a beautiful but crisp Fall day.
The Jardin des Tuileries is one of Paris’s most popular green spaces. Situated in the center of the City of Light, it connects the Louvre Museum, the Musée d’Orsay, the Jeu de Paume museum, and Place de la Concorde. It also provides access to the Berges de Seine.
In the past, before the Tuileries garden, there was tile factories, which lend their name to the garden. Tuileries Palace was built by Catherine de Medici in 1564. It had a rich, Italian-style garden consisting of numerous walkways, a fountain, and a decorated grotto. One century later, King Louis XIV and Jean-Baptiste Colbert, State Finance Controller, commissioned André Le Nôtre to come up with a new design for the gardens, which were also extended. At that time, the gardens were already open to the public and accessible for all Parisians, even if it was guarded to protect its beauty. Today, Tuileries Palace no longer exists as it was destroyed in 1883. However, Parisians and visitors continue to walk there. Walks are punctuated by several ponds and sculptures. It is a great place to talk and for children to play. Benches and seats are provided free of charge so that everyone can enjoy the developments of Le Nôtre.
The Arc de Triomphe Paris, the most monumental of all triumphal arches, was built between 1806 and 1836. Even though there were many modifications from the original plans (reflecting political changes and power struggles), the Arch still retains the essence of the original concept which was a powerful, unified symbol for France.
The Arc de Triomphe stands at the center of the Place Charles de Gaulle, also known as the “Place de l’Étoile”. It’s located at the western end of the Champs-Élysées. The arches whole decorative style is entirely of the tradition of sculpture from the first half of the nineteenth century.
The triumphal arch is in honor of those who fought for France (and in particular, those who fought during the Napoleonic wars). Engraved on the inside and at the top of the arch are all of the names of the generals and wars fought. There are inscriptions in the ground underneath the vault of the arch which include the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier from World War I where the Memorial Flame burns and have made the Arc de Triomphe Paris a revered patriotic site.
The Champs-Élysées is a truly lovely avenue: a picture postcard scene. Nearly 2 kilometres in length, this historic thoroughfare runs from Place de la Concorde to the majestic Arc de Triomphe. But though it has since become ‘the world’s most beautiful avenue’, the Champs-Élysées was once a swamp. It was in the 17th century that André Le Nôtre, gardener to the Sun King, traced its original path. And thus a legend was born. The avenue has only become more beautiful with every passing decade.
I took the #1 Metro back to the Airbnb.
Later we went for an evening walk to get Rebecca some air as she is still battling a cold virus.
Paris – (Free) Sunday, November 7, 2021
In Paris, the first Sunday of the month is free museum day, with most of them offering free admission. I checked the internet and read many posting advising me to avoid this day as it is way too crowded. Being an overcast November day I went to one of my favorites – Musée d‘Orsay, anyway.
Musée d’Orsay is housed in a magnificent train station building, which is a historic site constructed for the 1900 World Fair.
The Orsay is an internationally renowned art museum with a rich collection of Impressionist art and specializes in displaying artistic creations from 1848 to 1914.
Musée d’Orsay, displays experience masterpieces from 19th & 20th-century European art collections, all housed in a former monumental railway station built in 1898 – 1900.
I arrived around 10 AM and was richly rewarded, with short lines and amazing collections. I spent over 4 hours there in awe. I shot almost 400 pix here are just a few.
On the way home I stopped by Sainte-Chapelle, (built-in 1248) again almost no line at all.
It was a great cultural day in Paris at my favorite price- free.
In the evening Rebecca and I took a short stroll in our hood. There are many art galleries there.
On the way home, we stopped to visit Rebecca’s new friend Mr. Jeff de Bruges.
Paris – Satuday, November 6, 2021
The plan was to walk to the Sainte-Chapelle, about a half-hour walk along the river Seine. I was using City Mapper an even better map program than Google maps. I arrived at about 11:30 AM. The only problem was a lot of other people had arrived by 11:29 and the line was too long for my level of patience that day.
The Sainte-Chapelle is the finest royal chapel to be built in France and features a truly exceptional collection of stained-glass windows. It was built in the mid 13th century by Louis IX, at the heart of the royal residence, the Palais de la Cité. It was built to house the relics of the Passion of Christ. Adorned with a unique collection of fifteen glass panels and a large rose window forming a veritable wall of light,the Sainte-Chapelle is a gem of French Gothic architecture.
So Plan B was just to wander around on this sunny Fall day in Paris. Not a bad fallback position (no pun intended). I was rewarded with many interesting sights including a visit to the Louvre area.
After that, I took the Metro back to my ‘hood for a return Sushi Lunch.
After lunch, I visited Place des Vosges, the nearby park area that our neighborhood is named after.
Place des Vosges, located mostly in the 4th district, was originally called place Royale. The square was renamed after the French Revolution in tribute to the north-east region of Vosges, bordering Germany and Luxembourg, which was the first to pay taxes imposed by the new government.
The composition of the Place des Vosges epitomizes the classic French style and is a unique example of seventeenth century architecture. Originally the terrace was covered with sand to allow aristocrats to indulge in equestrian exercises. A statue of Louis XIII was erected in the square, then destroyed in 1792 after the fall of the monarchy ; it was replaced by an octagonal fountain. It took until the early nineteenth century for the royal equestrian statues as well as that of Louis XIII, destroyed during the Revolution, to once again be rebuilt.
Paris – Friday, November 5, 2021
Today was walk-to-the-Eiffel-tower day. It was about an hour walk along the Seine river.
The Eiffel Tower was built to be one the main attractions at the Paris World’s Fair in 1889. That year, the World’s Fair covered the entire Champ de Mars in Paris and its focus was the vast constructions in iron and steel that were the great industrial advancement of that time.
First called the 300-meter Tower, it soon took the name of the man who built it, Gustave Eiffel. The Tower opened to the public the same day as the World’s Fair, on May 15, 1889.
Controversy over the Tower raged in the art world before and during its construction, but thanks to the audacity of its architecture and design, visitors and Parisians immediately fell under its charm and more than 2 million people toured it in the first year.
The Eiffel Tower’s various illuminations (golden, sparkles, beacon, and illuminations for special events) are protected by copyright. Any nighttime pictures of the Eiffel Tower used by professionals for professional ends thus require previous authorization from SETE (Société d’Exploitation de la tour Eiffel – the Eiffel Tower management firm) and eventually the payment of usage rights.
The trip took me by Notre Dame, past some street vendors, musicians, many cool bridges, and the Musée d’Orsay.
The area near the Eiffel Tower was bustling with tourists and the usual scam artists. I noticed that there was some work being done on the Tower.
I took the #8 metro home to spare me the hour walk, as I had already bagged my 10,000 steps for the day.
Wipeout…
The previous day we had restocked the bathroom with toilet paper, having been supplied one roll for a 1-month stay by the owner.
Walking home I received a call from Rebecca informing me that we were out of TP. I was a bit puzzled and reminded her that there was a new 4 pack in the bathroom.
It turns out that I had purchased a 4 pack of paper towels not toilet paper, both looking similar and my lack of french not being helpful. So I stopped back at the supermarket and carefully purchased a new supply. Interestingly in the Monoprix store, the TP is sold not in the food/grocery section but near the other paper products- notebooks, copy paper, and the like on a different floor. Well, we are now fully covered.
An observation...
I have noticed that Paris has become very bike-friendly. The street by our Airbnb has a wide dedicated lane for bikes which receives much traffic, about as much as the cars/trucks.
Paris – Thursday, November 4, 2021
Rebecca is relaxing with a bad cold today. I picked up some supplies for her before I left for a short walk around the city.
The vibe on the street near our Airbnb in Place des Vosges is very NY-ish. Many people on the street, several resale shops, and bountiful places to eat indoors and out. Closer to Notre–Dame it was surprisingly quiet.
The streets and river are alive with Fall colors as the deciduous trees drop their Fall coverings to reveal their winter skeletons.
The weather was cooler but not cold with early morning showers.
I treated myself to a sushi lunch (Sushi Buffett / 39 Rue de Lappe, 75011 Paris ) in our neighborhood before returning home to check on Rebecca.
Here are a few street shots.
Paris – Wednesday, November 3, 2021
Today we moved to our Airbnb, but first a word about our little hotel in Montmarte Hotel des Arts- Montmarte.
The check-in clerk Ame’Cie was a delight. She went out of her way to make us feel at home and even upgraded our room. The hotel itself was pleasantly quirky. This included elevator music that featured theme songs from TV shows like Charlie’s Angles / Love Boat and art thorough.
Rebecca enjoyed practicing her French which was both appreciated and amusing to our hosts. They gave us a tote bag as we were leaving as a reward for her efforts.
Our new digs are in a great part of Paris. Typically it is rather modest in size and the second-floor unit lacks a lift which made lugging our bags up a real workout.
Rebecca is feeling a bit under the weather, so after a trip to the Monoprix for provisions, she rested. We have a full month to explore and enjoy Paris.
An evening walk along the blvd felt very much like a typical NY City street.
Paris – Tuesday, November 2, 2021
The hotel is working out well being close to the action in Montmartre. Tomorrow we change to our Airbnb, which will give us some more room and a new location in the heart of Paris-Place des Vosges.
I visited the local Montmartre cemetery which I find interesting, reflecting on the varied lives of people who preceded us.
It was an amazing Fall day to walk among the final resting places of famous artists, writers, and prominent families. Some of the monuments were as large as small houses. Also, November 2 is the day many people tidy up the graves of their families.
The Montmartre cemetery, officially known as the Cimitière du Nord, opened in 1825. It is the third largest necropolis in Paris, after the Père Lachaise cemetery and the Montparnasse cemetery. The Pont de Caulaincourt, a metal bridge built in 1888, spans over the 11 hectare cemetery. Full of trees (maple trees, chestnut trees, lime trees and thuja), the site is perfect for walking and is situated close to the Sacré-Coeur. The cemetery has 20,000 burial plots and among the famous people buried there includes Stendhal, Émile Zola, Gustave Moreau, Berlioz, Sacha Guitry and even Dalida, whose grave is the most visited and has the most flowers.
Later I joined Rebecca at a local restaurant where she befriended two young ladies who were visiting from England.
After lunch, we visited the basilica and then climbed the steep internal stairs to the top of Sacré–Cœur basilica for a stunning view of Paris. We then took the tourist train around our area.
We noted that they were preparing the outside of the Sacré–Cœur basilica to shoot part of the next John Wick movie tonight. I briefly saw Keanu Reeves walk by to the set.
Later we explored the artists’ area where there is a group of portrait artists working with the visitors.
Aix en Provence/Paris – Monday, November 1, 2021
Paris –
Our French friends were gracious to hold two of our larger bags at their home in Aix which made travel so much easier. Merci Beaucoup to Michelle and Andy who even picked the bags up yesterday with their car.
Made it to the Aix TGV station via taxi in plenty of time for our 7:15 AM TGV train to Paris. The train trip (775 KM/480 MI) was a bit over 3 hour trip on the high-speed train -Avg speed 160 mph. Much more comfortable than flying.
Arrived early at our Paris hotel – Hotel des Arts –Montmartre, a cozy tourist hotel in the thick of Montmartre. Dropped the bags for a walk around the area. We will be here for 3 days before moving to our Paris Airbnb for a month.
The Montmartre area was very crowded today as it was both a national holiday -All Saintes Day and school break. We wandered around the Montmartre Sacré–Cœur basilica which offers an incredible view of Paris.
We caught a quick lunch in the area and met some fellow travelers from Mexico, Two ladies with their mother and one son. I orderer what I thought was a Salmon burger and received a burger with foie gras instead. A nice 4 EU upgrade on the bill by the restaurant. No big deal and it tasted great.
The day started out sunny but by mid-day, the Gods became angry and dropped rain on our parade. Fortunately, we were returning back to the hotel just as the rain started.
We checked in about 3 PM and took a nap to recharge. I went outside to do some photos after the rain. Rebecca rested in the room.
